Busy Bee Lawn Care Service and Sprinkler Repair - Lexington Columbia South Carolina

Lawn Fertilization Service Needs Differ

2012-01-23T11:23:00.000-05:00

Often times where a customer is seeking a ”better" lawn fertilization service company there are similar complaints that I hear and the grass is often literally greener on the other side. I think the #1 complaint is “they are feeding my weeds”. Another one is the more general statement that “there have been no improvements in my grass”. The question then is why can’t the more commonly known treatment services in Columbia, S.C. address these issues with every customer? This question boils down to suitability where one service might be fine for one customer but not for another. In addition, I believe the answer is that the more commercial treatment services in many cases:

· Are not the correct fit for every customer’s lawn or every customer’s personality or style of communication. Some accounts call for a more personalized, unique approach.

· Have become “Price” driven in the minds of the customer and not quality driven. The current market cost of service is roughly half of what it should cost for an effective long term program.

· They have a better marketing program than the actual physical service. If they were to effectively go over the laundry list of items below it would result in less sales.

· Are employing low paid, unskilled workers who do not take stock in the outcome.

· Have caused the customer base in general to lower their expectations as to the definition of high quality service and outcome.

· Taken true personalization of service to you and your lawn out of the equation. Timely, constructive, thoughtful consultations are needed (and that costs more money, which is a tough sale).

· Fallen short in advising of the necessary, comprehensive regimen that is needed for any plant to grow. It takes more than just a sprinkle of chemicals.

An effective lawn fertilization schedule and weed control treatment program should include the treatments that these companies provide, but equally as important, should advise of the need for proper lawn mowing service, a regular fall cleanup schedule, serious consideration to the type of grass that you are trying to maintain, core aeration, and a routine lawn sprinkler system watering regimen.

Fit, suitability and communication are other important fine points – Some yards are so personalized and unique that some treatments will work in some places, but not in others. Take the slopey yard that is shady in some areas but sunny in others where the dog is allowed in the back yard but not the front for instance…here is an example of how anything short of the resident taking care of the yard on a highly personalized level would almost always be ineffective. It is nearly impossible to delegate this out to any service other than a grounds keeper. Suitability where one company’s cookie cutter approach works on the standard lawn but not on the more garden-like grounds is a consideration…does the service suit your unique needs? Sometimes, retaining a service that will communicate with you on the level that you and your yard require should cost you more. Sometimes, the company should refer you to another company that would fit your specific need better instead of accepting your business, knowing logically it will probably end up in failure…but hey, they’re not worried about it because you just signed a contract with them and you’re on the hook to pay them for the duration.

Maintaining a lawn properly requires attention to the plant as a living breathing organism. Treatments do matter, but of equal importance are the intricacies of how the lawn is being mowed, how often, with what type of equipment and at what height. Does your landscape maintenance service mulch mow or do they bag? Often times, bagging the clippings is literally the same as taking a little of your lawn’s health away every time they mow. It robs the ground of micronutrients and will eventually lead to the declination of the turf. Bagging is necessary sometimes, especially when you are planning an event where it needs to “look” its best, but definitely not on every mowing. Of equal importance is the height of mow, which should not be any more than 1/3 of the height of the grass. This is a price driven item...most people here in South Carolina opt for bi-weekly service which often times causes that 1/3^rd cut rule to be broken. To achieve the goal of optimal turf grass, you must consider whether to have your service done weekly or bi-weekly. Refraining from cutting at all is also a consideration. Here in South Carolina, we tend to have droughts for 5-7 week periods of time. It is during those dry/hot times that your service should refrain from cutting in some cases. This is another money driven item – if your service is being paid a flat monthly fee, then they are going to try to mow no matter what on a set schedule to “make their showing” and earn their keep. This is often the case where the person doing the work is the owner of the company who’s income is directly affected. Alternately, some companies employ hourly paid workers who are trained to “pass” on the mowing. The company then does not charge for that particular day’s service. The company owner’s income is affected by this non-mowing, but the worker’s pay is not as affected. In the end, the goal is to look out for the grass as a living organism, not a commodity.

At about the time that everyone is putting their lawn mower away around October 15^th, it is actually time to switch gears and think about the fall cleanup schedule. This applies to your yard if you have deciduous trees or pine trees, gumball trees, or any other tree that will lose its leaves or sticks in the fall. All this debris coming down on the ground can wreak havoc on the root systems of the turf. Instead of waiting until all the debris has fallen, it is best to have this fall cleanup on a regimen just like the mowing schedule.

Some plants grow well in some places, but not so well in others. The biggest problem I see is where people expect the chemicals to remedy situations where there is very little sunlight or too much shade. This would call for a different type of grass altogether, not a different treatment service. This is a tough pill to swallow for most people because its one of those situations where the building contractor threw down a general type of grass, often centipede or Bermuda, in an area that called for Zoysia. Or in the case where initially, the type of grass they used was great because the trees were new and small, but over time the trees grew large and shaded out the ground below. The hard and fast truth of the matter is that you would then need to either cut down the trees or rip up the sod and start with a new type of lawn. No treatment in the world will do this.

Core aeration is another costly item that is needed to complete the circle. This applies mostly to areas that have high traffic or the underlying topsoil area is thin. It also applies if you use heavy riding mowers as opposed to push mowers which are light and don’t affect the compaction of the soil. If your yard needs core aeration badly enough, you would be completely wasting your money if you were to treat it and expect a positive outcome. Aeration is another extremely labor intensive item that has fallen victim to recessionary lowballing trends. For the labor and equipment involved, an effective aeration service should be in the hundreds of dollars for the average yard.

Do you have a sprinkler system? If not, there’s a fly in the ointment. Modern grasses require controlled irrigation on a set schedule unless it is raining for us. If you want a positive outcome from your lawn fertilization service, it is absolutely necessary that you water your lawn regularly. Not only regularly but effectively – is that water reaching the necessary root system depth? If not, you need to saturate it more. If you have sandy soil, you may need to water more often. All of these things should be addressed on a professional level. The end result of your watering in most cases should be that the dirt, to the touch, is ever so slightly moist and seldom let to dry out completely. Its an art though! At times, especially when fungus is a threat, you should let it dry out a bit more than usual.

So, in defense of the more widely known treatment services out there, don’t hold it all against them if your yard doesn’t look any better. Do consider, though, that they should be advising you on all levels (and charging you) and that you get what you pay for. Comprehensive lawn care overall (unless you have some really intricate chemical balance issues) is done by companies that not only treat the yard but also do the physical maintenance on the yard.

Managing Crape Murder

2012-01-20T09:59:00.000-05:00

A while back, I did an article on how to prune crape myrtles. Since here in Columbia and Lexington South Carolina it is best to take care of these tree like bushes in February, before they begin to bud for the spring, I thought I'd post an update and some fresh thoughts on how to manage crapes...particularly, crapes that have been previously hacked on improperly.

One finer point that goes deeper on the subject than the usual "prune to train, prune off the spent pods only, don't hack on the large limbs" is what to do if the tree has simply gotten too big for the area or for your taste. These things grow very fast and before you know it you do have a big tree to deal with. Even if your crape myrtles have been perfectly manicured every February and it is now just too big, then what? No level of perfect cut is going to remedy the fact that you are now forced to either remove the tree altogether (gasp!) or go against all principles and commit crape murder (egad!). This situation is similar to camellias, where the bush has gotten so large that it is starting to look like a popsicle. So how to make the best of the situation.

I propose that you consider taking the whole tree down to the quick. Leaving a stump about 2" high...high enough to clear mulch but low enough to where it is not obvious. After you chainsaw it down, you then keep it watered and hope for the best. If you have any shooters with leaves you might want to leave those on until you get more shooters out of the stump. Then when those remaining shooters are no longer needed for their sunlight intake, you cull them to the quick. What were hoping for here is that the robust root system of your precious family heirloom firecracker red crape myrtle will quickly send up new shoots out of what is now a stump. The likeliness of this happening is quite high as, again, crapes are like weeds.

After a season or two, you then pick the shoots (4+ feet tall by now) that you like the most. You cultivate them to go in the direction you want and prune off the rest. It depends upon the situation but I recommend cultivating no more than 5 shoots which will one day be large (keep that in mind). So there's a potential solution to crape myrtles that have gotten too large and messy...

Another fine point of crape myrtle management is what to do with the large unsightly knots that have formed on the ends of the limbs as a result of previous crape murder. Speaking as one who's eyes practically burn when I see something like this, I propose that instead of paying somebody an hourly rate to tediously cut off every shoot from last year's growth, that, since you've already entered into the improper management cycle of crape murder, you cut this time just under the large knot area into fresh stump. This leaves a cleaner look; as clean as it can get. And sure, year after year of this will lower that precious, smooth trunk, but it does look better than leaving the knots and eventually it'll be down to the ground as previously proposed as an initial cut.

As always, if I can be of assistance, let me know!
-ash, Busy Bee Lawn Care & Sprinkler Repair

How to install a lawn sprinkler irrigation system

2012-01-14T17:15:00.000-05:00

If you have a large enough yard to where it impractical to water the lawn with a traditional hose and portable sprinkler you may want to consider installing an automatic underground sprinkler system. Sprinkler System Installation in Columbia S.C. includes many steps to take which are outlined below. Generally, these steps include:

Calling PUPS before you dig - especially when you are planning on running pvc pipes near utility junctions, you must call this free service (PUPS) to have them mark the area for gas lines, power lines, etc. Once you have called them, they will mark the site within 3 days or so of your order. Once marked, you will have a more clear idea of where and where not to install your pipes, valves, etc. One tip for locating your water meter is to look on the street curb for a blue marking. Sometimes there is a blue mark that lines up with where the main from the street runs.

Evaluating the areas in your yard that you want to be watered - Some yards have heavy slopes, which need to be taken into account in regards to the layout of the zone. If, for instance, you install a 4 head zone in a straight line going downhill, you will have problems with leak down issues. A better setup on this slope would be a side to side setup where all heads are pretty much at the same level. Another consideration specific to each yard is drip irrigation for the flower beds where careful planning is taken to isolate the beds as a unique zone rather than tapping into what was intended to be a lawn spraying zone. In short, every yard is different and the design of each yard should be unique, not cookie cutter.

Marking the ground where you want the heads installed - careful consideration should be given as to where to place a sprinkler head and exactly what kind of head to install in that spot. You should mark each spot with a flag. Once each zone head location has been planned, you should choose the type of head and decide what you want that head to do. Basically, you need to choose either a rotary head or a popup head. With each head, you then need to choose what type of nozzle to use. Nozzles vary in spray pattern, in gallons per minute output, in adjustability, and in spray angle.

Purchasing the appropriate parts and accurate amounts of piping - This comes with experience in regards to commercial sprinkler repair and installation. The advantage that the contractor has in this regard is #1 it saves time (which is money) if they can go by feel and #2 the contractor gets a discount on the parts. In the case of the do it yourselfer, there is a very good solution though...draw up a general plan of your yard to scale, get a GPM reading of the water main output, then mail that information to your favorite sprinkler parts provider (like Rain Bird). Manufacturers will often professionally draw up a parts list and a blueprint for you to use. You would then take that parts list to your favorite hardware store and begin purchasing. Again, keep in mind that you are paying retail for those irrigation parts where the contractor is buying at a discount (that can be passed on to you at least in part).

Choosing a water main tap-in spot - this is often a deciding factor for do it yourselfers as to whether they will proceed with the installation on their own. Basically, you need to install a "tee" in your water main line that leads to #1 a shutoff ball valve and #2 a backflow control valve (then on to supply the sprinkler system zone valves). Where you decide to tap in is up to you, but optimally it should be at the largest diameter pvc spot and close to the water meter. If you are faced with tapping into a galvanized water main pipe as opposed to the more simple pvc (modern) pipe, then you may want to consider either having a plumber come in and tap in OR tap in in an alternate spot. This is another task that you may want to have a professional do for you.

The items mentioned here are only a few of the many steps you eed to take when considering how to install a lawn sprinkler irrigation system. If you are the do it yourseler type and you are trying to save some money, you may want to call on a paid consultant to at least help you get started and make the initial recommendations such as layout, water main tap-in, water pressure issues, parts needed, where to get the right parts, etc. Either way, you should be careful for your safety, you should consider the environment, and you should practice only the best standard methods in plumbing.

Proper lawn maintenance begins with fall cleanup

2011-12-16T15:06:00.001-05:00

In the spring and summer, I often get the inquiry where there is a problem with the lawn like dead spots, washout, or bad growth. The turf is declining, there are bare spots or dead areas and the customer wants an answer. A common misconception is that, at that point in the year, there is a "silver bullet" of a remedy that can immediately turn the condition of the lawn around; a treatment or a quick seeding that will give them the lush, green lawn that they desire. The truth of the matter is that proper lawn maintenance should include a thorough fall cleanup routine that perhaps includes some treatments.

There are several different attacks happening on your lawn in the fall. Sticks, pine cones, gumballs, acorns, leaves and pine straw are a few of the major culprits. These items must be removed in order to optimize your lawn's potential. Fall cleanup can be done with a blower or a rake of course, but a blower is the best way to get all the debris out off the nooks and crannies in the quickest way possible. My favorite leaf blowers are an even tie: I like the Echo PB651-T, which you can't get anymore and I like the Stihl BR600 magnum, which is a quieter model that is available at your local lawn and garden supply store.

One thing I see people doing is running the riding mower over a yard full of debris. The intent here (and the misconception in most cases) is that this "mulching" of the leaves is good for the lawn, somehow easier to do than rake, and perhaps even more environmentally friendly. In my many years of experience with lawn care, it is in my opinion that I state that I believe that this method is faulty. It seems to me that mulch mowing the debris creates a thin layer of lawn suppressing garbage as opposed to a more chunky layer of grass killing garbage. Heavy riding mowers exacerbate the problem because the heaviness and the wide tires push the debris into the soil. Pushing acorns, sticks and pine cones into the turf is a sure way to kill that spot in the season to come (grass will not grow on top of a pine cone). Although using the riding mower and getting those yard guy juices flowing seems like a great idea, in my opinion you'd be much better off buying a quality backpack blower, blowing the leaves into a pile, raking that onto a $9 tarp and dragging it to the street or a natural area.

There are also various treatments that you might consider in the Fall. Lime, for instance, might be a good pick if your pH is off, if you see moss, or if you have onions...and often times, in yards that have a lot of washout or pine trees, lime application is a good choice for this time of year. One lawn treatment service that I consider to be a basic need is pre-emergent. Pre-emergent granules can be a critical part of the annual treatment regime in that they "prevent" winter weeds from emerging. This often overlooked treatment also has post emergent properties to a lesser extent and a slight amount of seasonal fertilizer.

In summary, if you have an abundance of leaves, pinecones, or the like in your yard, do your lawn a favor in the spring to come and do the leaf removal with a backpack blower. The job will be done much faster, much easier, and more thorough than other methods like raking. Take the time to manually pick up the heavier debris like sticks and pinecones. Carefully gather acorns with a rake or take the time to blow acorns into a pile so you can collect them and remove them. Spend some time working on your yard in the fall and your lawn will be on its way to being more lush and beautiful for your enjoyment in the spring to come!

Lawn and Sprinkler System Winterization

2011-09-27T06:35:00.000-04:00

The road to a beautiful yard that is free from weeds, appealing to the eye and functioning properly takes more than the occasional mowing during the cutting season. Fall is here and its time to do some final housekeeping in regards to your lawn, the sprinkler system, and the yard in general.

At this time of year, as prescribed in the Busy Bee Lawn Care Annual Grass Fertilization Service and Weed Control Program, you might want to consider applying a granular pre-emergent to your lawn and flower beds. A preemergent application in the fall is a step you can take to minimize the amount of winter weeds you would have otherwise. Its often those few weeds among your dormant grass that are not only unsightly, but also costly...if you didn't have these few weeds, you could probably put your mower away completely for the entire winter or if you pay for lawn mowing service, you can give your wallet a break for a few months. You should also cut down on watering, which contributes to weed growth in the winter when the base lawn is not able to crowd out the unwanted weeds.

Speaking of watering, late fall is the best time to winterize your (Rain Bird, Toro, Hunter, Orbit, etc) sprinkler system. This procedure should be carefully done by a professional sprinkler repair service. The purpose of sprinkler system winterization is to prevent the plastic pvc pipes, fittings, and valves from freezing in the winter by evacuating the water from the system. A hard freeze, which has become more prevalent here in Columbia and Lexington South Carolina can severely damage your irrigation which can be costly and time consuming (not to mention detrimental to a well watered lawn if left unrepaired for a length of time).

Another general item that should be included in your fall yard routine is leaf cleanup or "fall cleanup". The task at hand is to remove as much pine straw, cones, sticks, gumballs, and leaves as you can. Mulching these items and hoping that they turn into good topsoil has been proven through my many years of experience to be a bad plan. Most of the time where people have either left the leaves and debris on the turf for too long or, with the best of intentions, "mulched" the debris there are bare spots, disease, fungus and mold where the debris was left. Although some people advocate mulching debris in the fall (especially leaves), I have found it to be bad for the lawn. In my opinion, the best protocol is to blow the leaves into a pile, tarp them and drag them to your dumping spot; removing the debris from the lawn altogether. If your mower sucks up the debris well enough in "bag" mode without leaving too many chopped up pieces behind, then that's a fine tact as well.

In regards to a comprehensive lawn care routine, several preventative steps can be taken to maximize beauty and even save you money in the long run. Taking care to remove leaves and debris from among your lawn can save you from having to buy new sod in the spring. Proper irrigation winterization and backflow control valve testing can save you the expense and headache of a leaking system. A proper application of pre-emergent in the fall can save you from having to mow through the winter. So happy gardening, and if you don't have the time to do these things on your own, we're standing by to help as usual at Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia - (803)331-5323

Could The Columbia, S.C. “Famously hot” Slogan be Hurting the Local Economy?

2011-07-21T22:07:00.001-04:00

Could The Columbia, S.C. “Famously hot” Slogan be Hurting the Local Economy?
By: Mr. Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care & Sprinkler Repair

Columbia has been described as oppressively hot, stifling, sweltering, muggy, sultry, and just plain hot. Yes, Columbia South Carolina is the armpit of the South; it’s quite difficult to be productive outside as it is…so why did the powers that be vote for the current “Famously Hot” slogan? This moniker is not only stifling to the economy as an end result, but along the way it is making for bad morale, management problems; it offends would be vacationers…why would anyone want to stay here if the negative impression that they already have of Columbia is verified with this slogan? We’re still trying to live down the whole “armpit of The South” thing! I believe that dealing with the heat is a mindset and that if we do not think about it, have to think about it or be perpetually reminded of it we can be more productive and make it through the day without it being such a bain to our existence. As a blue collar business owner here in The Midlands, among The Midlands’ hundreds of companies who make their living out in the “non air conditioned” world, I for one vote we change this slogan to help our economy and to improve morale overall.

Complaining about the heat (as I, having been sucked into the media spin of it all myself, have caught myself doing, albeit jokingly, and just recently discovered the inherent problems therein) creates several problems and translates into a loss of revenue from the top down. I think we all can grasp the idea that if, in the minds of our peers and co-workers, the heat condition is perpetually portrayed in such a negative way, then production is going to decrease, revenue is going to continue to decrease, and we’re going to end up as a purely consumerist society where no one actually produces anything tangible be it labor with an outcome, a valuable product or a worthwhile service. Production verifiably decreases either outwardly, psychologically, or from peer to peer and ultimately take away motivation and drive. That throttling back of production of our extremely crucial blue collar industry (which is the backbone of Columbia’s economy) in this, our only productive 8 months out of the year (the other 4 plus are spent either preparing for a holiday, enjoying the holiday, or flat doing nothing productive at all), will trickle down negatively throughout our entire economy from the guy who mows your yard to the guy who sells you an insurance policy; everyone is affected. If the blue collar workers are no longer inclined to “just do it” or “acclimate” to the condition because the media has stifled their enthusiasm and appreciation of gainful employment, then their purchasing power will decrease as a result of lack of income or future income increases, the seller of the goods that they purchase will suffer due to the reduction of revenue, the building owner who rents the seller’s store to him would suffer, the tax system that we are born into and will die paying towards that supports our infrastructure will suffer, and on and on. Do slogan voters understand that perception can affect the economy?

We’re not getting any hotter, it’s the same as it has always been. Hurricanes are not getting more prevalent, El Nino is here one year and gone the next (it’s a cycle, we know this!), and the polar bears in Alaska are not dying as a result of anything short of God’s Will and the natural progression of the environment.

Tangent? Who cares! Its my blog get over it =)

For information sake, maybe it would help the cause somehow to mention that there exist several ways of dealing with the heat that those who are native to our fine City may or may not be familiar with. One way to beat the heat is by wearing a wide brimmed hat. Ironically, a company named Columbia Sportswear, makes such a hat which not only keeps the blazing sun from frying your ears and crown, but also seemingly brings the temperature down and shades your eyes. This hat alone buys you 20% more up time in the heat and glare (20% more up time for you means 20% more up time for your employer and 20% more uptime with the economy down from there). Some people may not consider such a garment to be the most “hip” thing in the world to wear but hey, we’re talking about survival here, not a fashion show. Another vulnerable body part that has to be protected lest you develop melanoma in your golden years is your forearms. Under Armor, Nike, etc make a long sleeve, lycra/spandex shirt that will cover your arms and shoulders to the equivalent of over 100 spf I’m sure, wick away moisture from you or retain moisture if you like (wet it with a hose!) to cool you, while not weighing but a couple of ounces and not weighing you down like cotton. The shirt buys you another significant percentage of up time. And finally, the 2 golden rules that we all hear which are so true: Hydrate and take a breather, either of which equate to a happier, healthier, more productive day for everybody.

So why would anyone want to come to Columbia with that sort of slogan hanging over our heads? We work so hard to tout our Vista Nightlife, good times at Lake Murray, the great residential developments like Lake Carolina, Forest Acres, Lexington…but we have this slogan that reminds the world how oppressively hot we are? If the word “hot” in the slogan was perceived as “trendy” then that would be a slightly different matter but it isn’t…hot is hot, as in temperature and its having an effect on our pocketbooks where travelers and vacationers are concerned. Think it is not affecting our coastal neighbors? Think again…Myrtle Beach isn’t exactly flourishing right now.

So being that it is not my nature to present a problem without some sort of solution, I have some suggestions for a new slogan that the powers that be should consider. How about “The heart of those Smiling Faces Beautiful Places” or “A Great Place to work and Raise a Family”? If our target market is Vista Goers how about let’s call a spade a spade and just say “The Vista from here is Great!”?

So tomorrow, like every day, the media will persist with their proclamation of “record highs” and, while in their air conditioning, joke about the oppressive condition of it all and we’ll all, ever so subliminally remember those statements and wonder why we’re having increasingly miserable summers. When did these “records” begin anyway? Did they start this temperature record keeping perhaps as far back as the late 1800’s? Maybe? Folks 100 or 200 years of “records” is not even a drop in the bucket where the timeline of humanity is concerned. We’re not heading into a hellish 120 degree every single day summer, we’re not on the brink of Armageddon, we’re not getting away from the fact that The Summers in Columbia are The Summers in Columbia, and we as human know-it-alls don’t know jack about meteorology or where this is all going in the grand scheme of things. What we do know is that we have a negative slogan that needs to be changed. It’s just my 2 cents…don’t hate the pot stirrer here…maybe something productive will come out of my rant for the betterment of the community. In the meantime, I’m going to keep on smiling, keep my head down, and try my best every day to be one of the driving forces of our economy even if it’s in a relatively small way.

Sprinkler Main Line Repair Costs

2011-06-29T11:20:00.001-04:00

Sprinkler Main Line Repair Costs can vary from situation to situation, but Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair Service, Columbia S.C. can service all your lawn sprinkler repair and maintenance needs. One repair that needs immediate attention is a broken sprinkler line which is leaking water.

First off, you’ll know you have a break in the sprinkler line if you’re experiencing a loss of water pressure, puddles and geysers in your yard, dead spots, or overly watered areas in the turf. A break in the sprinkler line is probably not located in the precise spot where you’ll see water coming up through the ground. So please leave digging to the professionals at Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair.

When you call Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair, a service tech will come out to assess the situation, explain to you what sprinkler line repairs are needed, and give you an estimate of the repair costs. First the tech will have to dig and locate where the line break has occurred. Then the tech will likely have to dig the lawn around the area of the break to determine how much damage there is, what parts will be needed, and approximately how long it will take to make the repair. From here, the tech can calculate an estimate for you. A quick, rough, online repair estimate can be obtained by emailing us at BusyBeeLawnCare@gmail.com, but a more accurate estimate will be given at the time of the service call.

If your lawn sprinkler line breaks, and you find yourself in need of prompt, professional sprinkler repairs, call Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair at (803) 331-5323. You can trust that your sprinkler repairs will be done right the first time because we know how important your lawn is to you!

Design Your Own Lawn Sprinkler System

2011-06-14T14:22:00.004-04:00

If you have made the choice to design your own lawn sprinkler system , you will need to make sure you have a good layout or design. Your design should include a drawing of your lot, sprinkler head position locations, and a yard divided into zones.

If a survey of your property is available, that would be of great help. Confirm its measurements by using a long tape measure. Mark all major boundaries and any objects in the yard, including trees, shrubbery, walkways, walls, etc…Also show where windows are located to prevent sprayed water from entering them, especially those on lower levels.

Make note of or mark the wettest and driest areas, as well as the shady and sunny spots. When deciding which sides should have sprinklers alone the edge, keep in mind that not all edges need sprinklers because this could cause watering over your property line. Use either triangular or square spacing when determining how many rows of sprinklers are needed. Details for this step can be found by doing some research online.

Now you will need to divide the yard into zones. Detailed and more specific instructions for this step can be found online by simply researching how to divide a yard into zones for a sprinkler system. If you’re not comfortable with tackling this step on your own, you can consult a plumber or sprinkler installation company.

Your layout should be as detailed and accurate as possible when you design your own lawn sprinkler system. A sprinkler system company or plumber can help you along the way if need be. Once you have your design, and have checked over it, you are ready to begin the installation process!

Sprinkler System Zone Wont Shut Off

2011-06-06T17:08:00.002-04:00

     Before you call a sprinkler system service company for a zone that will not shut off, troubleshoot the problem first. This can be a frustrating issue when you see the zone or zones watering long after they should have shut off. It could be something a simple as a programming error, but you could also find that a mechanical error like a stuck valve or wire malfunction is occurring.

     The first thing you can do is shut off the entire system at the control panel OR at the main backflow control valve OR at the system emergency shutoff valve which we can install for you. Whether your controller’s setting says “OFF”, “RAIN”, or “RAIN OFF”, by switching to that setting, you will shut the system off electrically. If the water stops running, the issue was in programming, and re-programming the water schedule could fix the problem.

     If water still continues to run, then this is an indication that the issue is mechanical in nature. At this point, you will need to go to the water source to shut the system off. The easiest way to locate the main water cut off is to find the backflow control valve, which is usually near the street with a green lid just at ground level.

     Now that you’ve concluded that the problem is mechanical, it is best to call an irrigation specialist who can find the problem and promptly repair it. You do not want the system to continue running because this could only worsen the issue, as large amounts of water would be wasted, your lawn could literally drown, or it can create a hazard much like a burst water main pipe.

     Troubleshooting a sprinkler system zone that just doesn’t want to shut off is quite easy. And although the problem itself could seem enormous, you can save yourself an emergency service call by troubleshooting the control panel first. If you find that the issue is a mechanical one, shut off the main water source and call a sprinkler service company.

Backflow Control Valves

2011-06-01T10:05:00.000-04:00

You can prevent contaminants from entering your water supply via your lawn sprinkler system by using backflow prevention devices or backflow control valves. The installation of these devices is required by law in some areas. Even if they are not a legal requirement, installing them is just good practice.
The on/off valves alone are not sufficient for preventing backflow. Over time, they can break or leak, allowing chemicals from the irrigation water to flow back into your water supply. These chemicals can include pesticides, fertilizers, and/or animal waste.

There are several types of backflow control valves. Double check valve assemblies (DCVA) are the most common, and are used for inline underground sprinkler systems. They are not approved for the prevention of backflow from irrigation systems containing hazardous substances. They are acceptable for sprinkler systems that aren’t injected with chemicals. Pressure valve breaker assemblies (PVBA) are the least expensive type of backflow control valve. They are easy to install, repair, and maintain. PVBA’s do not protect water lines, only the assembly itself. Commercial properties will use devices called reduced pressure zone assemblies. They have the highest level of protection, and are also the most expensive. If you have less than 6 control valves, atmospheric breakers are your best backflow prevention option. They are inexpensive, and each control valve will need an AVB installed.

You may also want to purchase accessories for your backflow control valves. Filter attachments are available to filter sediment from the system. Device enclosures are good for preventing theft and for heat insulation as a winterizing measure. You can also find test kits and repair kits that are portable and come complete with all the needed fittings and gauges.

Backflow control valves are a simple, inexpensive way to keep your family’s water supply safe from toxic or potentially hazardous chemicals. The importance of these backflow control valves cannot be stressed enough, which is why some areas require them by law. If you need one installed on your lawn sprinkler system or have one that needs repair or maintenance, give us a shout!

Sprinkler System Parts and Definitions

2011-05-25T09:51:00.000-04:00

So your sprinkler system is broken, leaking, or has been struck by lightening ay? One of the challenges with this issue is that when someone calls in for sprinkler repair, they don't have a good way of defining what parts may be broken. If you need a good resource for Sprinkler System Parts and Definitions, its as easy as a visit to our website! We have defined everything from zone valves to backflow control valves; control panels, tasks such as "trenching" and wiring, and all of those crafty words that the professional irrigation services use.

Sprinkler System Company Services

2011-05-19T08:05:00.000-04:00

When you’re researching lawn sprinkler systems, you may ask yourself what services does a sprinkler system company offer? Often, lawn and garden companies will hire their employees to install, repair, and maintain lawn irrigation systems. Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair is one such company. Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair works with both residential and commercial clients in the Lexington, Columbia, and Chapin areas.

Our crew can install your new sprinkler system after examining your land quality, lawn type, and landscaping. Once the installation process has begun, the crew will periodically check water pressure in each zone. When finished, the crew will ask you to inspect the sprinkler system to ensure it’s working properly.

Our sprinkler system company can also make any necessary repairs to your existing system. This can include pvc pipe repair, spray pattern adjustments, moving or replacing spray heads, adding lawn irrigation zones, removing trapped air in pipes, fixing leaks, etc…Also available is our Emergency Sprinkler related Plumbing Service where water main leaks are concerned.

Once you have a sprinkler system installed, or if you have an existing system, it’s very important that routine and proper maintenance of the system is performed. Tune-ups and regular maintenance will not only improve water coverage of your yard, it will also prevent costly repairs caused by ignored or prolonged issues. Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair can provide seasonal adjustments to the irrigation controllers, and perform an irrigation audit to seek ways of saving water.

As you can see, Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair can service your sprinkler system from installation to repairs and maintenance. Whether you are in Lexington, Columbia, West Columbia, or Chapin, you can count on the Busy Bee crew to service all your lawn sprinkler system needs. Call us at (803) 331-5323 or email to BusyBeeLawnCare@gmail.com!

How to Select the Best Rotator Head Types for Your Sprinkler System

2011-05-18T08:02:00.001-04:00

Once you’ve learned the basics of how sprinkler systems work, and have learned the difference between spray heads and rotator heads, you can begin your search for the best rotator head types for your lawn sprinkler system. Since rotator heads cover larger areas of the lawn, you’ll need to compare rotator head types in order to choose those that will work best for your individual situation.

Rotator heads are typically spaced 18-55 ft. apart, and require a lot of water pressure to operate. The rule of thumb regarding the selection of rotator heads is: “the water pressure at the rotor head (in PSI) must exceed the distance (in feet) between the heads.” And if you’re going to space your sprinkler heads more than 45 ft apart, hire a professional sprinkler repair service or designer with the specialized knowledge that’s needed for the design project.

Gear-drive rotator heads have interchangeable nozzles with a radius reduction screw. Simply put, but turning the screw clockwise, the stream of water is distorted, which results in a reduction of the water stream radius. Do not adjust the radius based on watching the stream alone. The lawn surrounding the sprinkler will be a better indication of what adjustments need to be made.

If you’re worried about the esthetics of your landscaping, as well as the safety of rotator heads protruding from your yard, pop-up heads are a better choice than shrub style. They are installed below ground, and are only visible during watering periods. Because they are underground, they aren’t a tripping hazard.

The majority of rotator heads on the market have the same basic features, and therefore meet the minimum quality requirements. When shopping for rotator heads, check the radius listed on the packaging. The spacing of these heads according to the radius is very important, and should be followed according to recommendations.

Lawn Service Means More Than Just Mowing

2011-03-09T09:41:00.000-05:00

Lawn fertilization services range from the simple application of fertilizer in the summer to the extravagant, managing all aspects of the grass from the growth rate to the depth of color. Most people only think about their yard in the pretty, warm months- fertilizing when the grass is growing or in the beginning stages of spring greening. Coincidentally, it is those homeowners who have the most challenges with their lawns as they have not done the preventative steps in the "off season" that would fend off the weed infestations, lack of growth, bug infestations and erosion. These items can prove costly, especially if you have to pay a landscaper to replace sod or build a retaining wall. A comprehensive lawn service will address all of these issues including proper mowing maintenance, lime applications, pre emergent applications, weed and feed in April, a summer fertilization and possible grubworm and chinchbug prevention applications.

Proper maintenance and prevention of turf problems begins with proper mowing frequency, deck height, and bagging practice. Most lawns should be "mulched" sometimes as well as baged other times depending upon the level of thatch. One should not mow "no matter what" during dry spells, even if a sprinkler system is artificially irrigating (because our water supplies alter the chemical state of water). Mowing height is extremely important; mowing high sometimes and low other times depending upon the type of turf (St. Augustine is mowed much higher than centipede or bermuda).

Soil testing early in the year can yield some valuable results as well. Often times, the soil in lawns in Columbia, Lexington and Irmo South Carolina call for an application of Lime now and then. Lime takes a while to work and should be applied in the Fall. Do you have moss growing in bald spots in the grass or lawn onions? If so, you may need to amend the soil with lime and or perform a core aeration.

Pre emergent applications such as Prodiamine or Dimension are critical components in a fully comprehensive fertilization program. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Take the time to remove yourselves from the winding down of October, get out in the cold of winter in late February/March, and apply preemergent to prevent those winter and early spring weeds that would "emerge" from seed...stop the seed from germinating.

Weed and feed is another, often granular, application that is easily applied with a spreader. It contains 2 components: a nutrition component with a timely mix of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium plus a weed killing component that further attacks those pesky weeds that made it past the pre emergent application phase. Also, by the time you add weed and feed, summer temperatures are on the horizon, which will, by virtue of the heat and light will kill out many weeds and rye grasses.

During the intense, high growth summer season, a timely, properly quantified application of fertilizer is critical. The needs of your lawn at this time are at its peak and the timeframe to make the plant grow thick in order to crowd out weeds is at its most opportune point. Spreading fertilizer should be done with a broadcast spreader, on 1/2 setting, crossing the lawn in one direction, then re-crossing the lawn in the other direction to increase chances of even coverage.

Grubworms, chinchbugs, and cutworms can completely obliterate your lawn in as little as a few days. Grubworms feed on roots, cutworms feed on new growth. All of these insects can be killed or prevented with a simple treatment.

If your lawn service is not at least advising you of these issues throughout the year, you may be doing yourself a disservice. Although many maintenance companies can come in "cheaper" in the short run, their oversights always prove costly in the long run. Mowing in a horticulturally sound way, lime applications, preventative weed treatment applications, weed and feed like scotts or lesco brand, a fertilization at the proper time and pest control are all items that a professional landscaping maintenance company will stay on top of for you - after all, you're paying them to make life easier for you not harder!

Sprinkler System Installation Columbia S.C.

2011-02-15T10:18:00.000-05:00

If you need a lawn Sprinkler System Installation in Columbia S.C, Lexington, Irmo, West Columbia, Chapin, or Cayce, let Busy Bee Lawn Care come give you an estimate! We have professionally trained, experienced sprinkler and irrigation tech's working for us nearly 7 days a week. Couple that with the most courteous, responsive management in the Midlands and you have yourself a great connection! Lawns need consistant irrigation and sprinkler systems give you that control that you need for a healthy lawn. It can save you money in the long run too because your grass will live healthier and have a much longer life span. Sprinkler system installation also gives a boost to your home's value.

Given the drought situations and problems with people losing their lawns due to low natural irrigation in the last few years, we saw a need in the community for sprinkler systems. Its the control and consistancy that these systems offer that helps with the situation. If left to the homeowner, who more and more often has little time if any to devote to their lawn's watering needs, the lawn often suffers, dries out, and requires replacement.

If you have a sprinkler system installed, you will also enjoy less water consumption over hand watering because, again, it is timed and exacting. Hand watering is often uneven or the water is left on for too long (which can also drown the roots).

Real Estate in the Greater Columbia, South Carolina Area can also benefit from sprinkler system installation. Given a quality, well maintained lawn with this critical component, houses have that added value that very well may be the selling point on any given piece of real estate.

For this and more tips on anything "yard" related, keep coming back to the Busy Bee Blog or visit http://www.busybeelawncare.com/ for the Finest in Landscape Maintenance, lawn Care, and Sprinkler Installation.

Lawn Service Columbia South Carolina

2011-02-11T13:53:00.000-05:00

Here's a new Lawn Service, Columbia South Carolina Video by Ashley Brooks of Busy Bee Lawn Care. Make sure to visit our website (and exchange links with us if you have a similar website!) at www.BusyBeeLawnCare.com , follow our daily lawn mowing and gardening related posts at http://twitter.com/busybeelawncare , Friend us on Facebook, or call (803)331-5323 and let us take care of your yard, your landscaping, shrub maintenance, fall cleanup, fertilization programs, tree removal (by referral), sprinkler repair, and more. We are South Carolina Natives.

Lawn Fertilization Treatment Service

2011-02-03T12:21:00.000-05:00

If you are in Lexington, Irmo, Greater Columbia, S.C., West Columbia or Cayce, you might want to consider hiring a Lawn Service that properly implements a Lawn Fertilization Treatment Service throughout the year. At very least, you should have either prodiamine or dimension pre emergent applied, a fertilization or two, a weed and feed, and possibly an application of lime.

Pre Emergent is due within the next few weeks (its February 3rd now). What an application of granular pre emergent does is it prevents the weed seeds from emerging in the early spring. The key to weed control is, in part, prevention. Both the Prodiamine and the Dimension products have a post emergent element to them as well, which will weaken the weeds in your winter lawn that have already sprouted. This year, in particular, the Greater Columbia, S.C. Area had a significant amount of snow, which was plowed up onto the curb. Notice all the green weeds popping up at the edge of your grass where it meets the street? This can be controlled!

To maintain a healthy lawn, your lawn service should keep you informed of these and other issues like when to fertilize and with what NPK Mix, what the soil condition is like, is it necessary to apply a "winterizer", mowing frequency and height, etc.

So this year, before you opt for the lowest cost "mow and go" service you can find, please consider that not all lawn services are alike!

Call Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia at:
(803)331-5323 or
Email BusyBeeLawnCare@gmail.com

The Best Lawn Service in Lexington S.C.

2010-12-15T16:11:00.000-05:00

The Best Lawn Service in Lexington S.C. is Busy Bee Lawn Care. Not only do we do the sharpest edges in town, but we also pay special attention to the height of the grass. If its St. Augustine, we mow very high. If its bermuda, we mow low to encourage it to grow laterally.

Lexington South Carolina is also a great place to do business for us. We have been serving the Lexington and Lake Murray area since 2005 and are growing every year by doing business with other people who have businesses. You see, we are networkers. We belive in reciprocation where referrals are concerned. If you refer me to someone or if you keep us for your lawn service, I will keep you in my rolodex for when I need your service in whatever you do and refer you to the various people I'm in contact with as needed.

We don't just do lawn mowing though. In Lexington, many people want a yard company that they can count on to shape their bushes properly, to fertilize their grass and prevent weeds, and to clean up all the fall leaves that come down in November. Right now, 12/15/2010, we are doing fall cleanups every day in the area, preparing the yards in Lexington for the upcoming Christmas Gatherings.

So whether you are in Whiteford or Golden Hills, Governors Grant, Old Cherokee Road area; on Lake Murray or near Mineral Springs road we can help with expert lawn service, unmatched communication, accurate billing, and a sharp staff who you can trust.

Sprinkler Wire Valve Tracing Service

2010-11-19T10:18:00.000-05:00

We would be happy to be your choice for Irrigation and Sprinkler System Wire and Valve Tracing Service. Valves that need to be serviced can get buried under sod, dirt, pine straw, etc over time and would need to be located using specialized equipment. Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair can help. We would need access to the control panel which is usually located in the garage as well as access to all parts of your yard (so please make sure the dog is up). Here's how we locate valves:

Basically speaking, a "ping" is sent from the known location of the wire at the control panel in the particular zone socket in question. This signal travels through the wire to the solenoid on the sprinkler valve (if the sprinkler valve still exists and has not been removed). Specialized equipment can trace this signal and map it throughout the yard, bringing the technician closer to the valve. When the receiver is close to the valve, a solid signal is evident and the valve can either be uncovered or poked with a tool that would penetrate the ground.

In the case of a broken sprinkler system wire, the wire would be traced in the same way, but the skill level of the technician would have to be higher because they would be looking for a slight change in the signal as opposed to the usual solid noise. Nicks and severe damage to underground wires can be difficult to locate, but can usually be found with the right equipment and skill level.

One of the reasons that you would want to have your sprinkler zone system and wires mapped out is if you have a zone that won't turn off. Usually, such a zone would slightly weep water out of the sprinkler head, causing dead grass, mushy soil, slick spots on walkways, etc. The cause of zones not turning off is faulty zone valves that would need to be serviced or replaced.

For this and more sprinkler and irrigation system repair topics, visit us on the web or call (803)331-5323. We service Columbia, Irmo, Lexington, West Columbia, and Cayce with the finest in sprinkler repair.

Sprinkler Head Leaks all the time

2010-09-17T15:10:00.000-04:00

I just did a Sprinkler Head Repair job in Lexington, S.C.. The customer called and described that one of the rainbird sprinkler heads always leaked, even (seemingly) after the system was off. Upon visual inspection of the sprinkler system, the head seemed to work fine, but it did indeed "leak down" after the zone was turned off. This type of problem exist where there is a head or a zone in the low part of a system, often the lowest head on the system - that's exactly what was going on with this particular service call. The remedy is quick and easy and I wanted to share with you how to repair such a problem on your own. Should you need to call on my professional services, I'm an email away...

Problem: Sprinkler Head leaks down all the time, causing large wet spot in grass, algae across walkway, higher water bill, etc.

Cause: Could be caused by a zone valve staying somewhat open. In the case this morning, it was simply the fact that the head was at the low point in the system, acting almost like a suction drain and allowing the water from that zone to drain out at the end of a cycle.

Solution: The solution today was to install a head with a better shutoff mechanism installed at the bottom of the head - a "seal-a-matic" or SAM. A head with a SAM installed will shut off more solidly, creating a tighter seal than with standard heads.

For more tips on sprinkler system and irrigation repair from someone local to Lexington and Irmo, S.C., come back to this blog or just follow us on twitter!

Sprinker System Repair Service Update

2010-08-28T15:39:00.000-04:00

If you are looking for sprinkler repair service and you are in the greater Columbia, S.C. Check out our newly revampled web page! We also will have how-to videos coming up soon on our youtube channel that will help you learn how to fix your lawn sprinkler system on your own. We have a Facebook page where we also post updates, we can be followed on twitter, and soon we will be launching in-person sprinkler repair mini classes!

The unique thing about our sprinkler repair and irrigation repair and adjustment service is that we don't mind you watching us work! If you call on us for service, feel free to observe...we will be glad to show you how to maintain your lawn watering system on your own in the future.

We look forward to being of service!

Grass Cutting Services in Columbia S.C.

2010-07-22T10:53:00.000-04:00

Grass Cutting Services in Columbia S.C. are as diverse as the mowers that they use. Some lawn services offer "mow and go" only, some offer a more detailed lawn service, and others go further and offer full landscape maintenance to commercial and residential customers.

Simply mowing the lawn or "mow and go" is a service which excludes edging, blowing the hard tops, weed treatment in the beds, etc. Its simply a lawn mowing. Many customers who are just maintaining a rental property or real estate in Greater Columbia, S.C. that is for sale or vacant opt for this service.

A detailed lawn service would include mowing the lawn, edging the lawn, and blowing all hard tops clear of debris. This is what the majority of people opt for. This type of more comprehensive lawn care includes periodic inspections of the lawn to determine if weed treatment for the grass is needed, whether fertilization would be of benefit, or whether the frequency of mowing is appropriate.

Customers who have alot to keep up with in their yard often opt for full groundskeeping services. Many large or lush grounds call for an expert to manage the grounds with mowing schedules, bush shaping, tree service, fertilization, soil analysis, pressure washing, and more.

Landscape maintenance can be as detailed or as simple as your needs or budget requires. Picking the right company that fits your need is critical because it can save you money, it can save you time in interviewing replacement companies, and it can help minimize your work load and involvement in maintaining your yard.

Managing Dead Spots in Lawn

2010-05-19T11:27:00.000-04:00

Managing dead spots in a lawn can be an intricate, expensive, and frustrating endeavor. The degree of communication with your lawn mowing service company can be a determining factor in whether these dead or diseased spots are properly managed. Dead grass can be caused by a spectrum of bugs and diseases and managed in several different ways that sometimes interrelate.

One common cause of bad spots in turf is pet urine. It is a fact that some pets, particularly dogs, will do their business in the same spot or general area every time. It is that concentration of urea or other biological chemical that can throw the pH balance off in any given turf. Some grasses are more tolerant of this phenomenon, others will die out. Correcting this problem could involve training the pet to go elsewhere, perhaps in the mulch/straw. Alternately, one could attempt to amend the pH of the affected area with treatments such as lime.

Another common cause, especially in the spring when growth is new and tender, is bugs. Particularly grubworms and chinchbugs. These pests will eat the root systems of your lawn and cause brown spots. They will continue to kill the yard until they are treated or until it becomes too cold outside for them to bear. Using a shovel, dig just under the affected area or at the edge of the affected area - look for short, white worm like creatures (grubworms). Identifying chinchbugs involves the same process, but looking much closer at the soil, looking for tiny dark colored bugs. Chinchbugs can also be brought to the top of a can cut at both ends and filled with water, placing the can in the suspect area. A preventative maintenance program would be in order if one is interested in managing these pests, which can be treated with granular pesticides. One note of caution: keep dogs/pets out of the treated area until it is safe for them to re-enter the area in accordance with the label on the product.

Grubworms and Moles go hand in hand. Moles feed, from underground, on grubs. Killing moles is very difficult, so a treatment option for this situation would be to supress the grubworms and hope that the moles head for greener pastures. Moles will make mounded caves - to manage mole hills, simply running the heavy tires of a riding mower over them will help manage until the moles leave.

Too much water or lack of sufficient sprinkler coverage can also contribute to the decline of a lawn. Too much water will cause the root system to get "waterlogged", causing the plant to starve for oxygen. Too little water has obvious effects, in extreme conditions causing the plant to go into dormancy. Proper sprinkler adjustment is important - the rule of thumb is to keep the soil at the turf just barely moist to the touch.

Other causes of brown spots in the lawn are heavy traffic or heavy machinery (as opposed to push mowers) which would call for more frequent aeration, lack of gutters which causes washing, steep slopes, and poor judgement in lawn mowing (cutting too short or too high or too often). Having a "perfect" lawn can be expensive! One must decide what they are willing to budget to keep the lawn at a satisfactory level of beauty.

For more information on this and many other Lawn related topics, visit our website or call us for lawn service at http://www.busybeelawncare.com/

Busy Bee Lawn Care Columbia Website Updates

2010-02-07T17:12:00.000-05:00

Here are a few updates we have done to the Busy Bee Lawn Care Service, Columbia Website:

We now have an about us page
We have updated our contact information
As always, we look forward to seeing you on twitter
We are always looking to do business with you and networking with you on our official Facebook Fan Page
We have updated our SiteMap

We look forward to serving your landscape maintenance needs in 2010!

How to prune crape myrtle

2010-02-04T11:46:00.000-05:00

I am often amused or even aghast at how some people or contractors have decided or been directed on how to prune crape myrtle trees, shrubs, or bushes - you know, those smooth trunked pseudo trees that often have "knots" at the ends or resemble a popsicle when they start growing back in the spring. Crape Myrtles can be one of the finer pieces in your landscaping or they can be the most unsightly depending upon how they are pruned. Below, my friends, I know is a photo that is hard to look at (but we must!), and may require parental guidance:

The right way to prune crape myrtle shrubs is best relayed not by textbook horticulture, but actually seeing it done, getting your hands dirty, exposing yourself to danger in some cases and having an artistic plan for the outcome, considering what will happen when new growth occurs. Hence, I am somewhat stifled in writing this article in accurately describing the "right" way...bear with me.

Picture your crape myrtle in a condition where you want to "do something" with is - thin, spindly growths prodruding in all directions, crossing one another, and potentially growing taller or wider than you would prefer. Now picture the "after" photo, consisting of 2 or more "Y" shapes where the miscellaneous growth has been shaved back to close to the trunk (but not too close to the trunk). Your goal is to cut off the limbs with a good clean cut to where that place will "heal" over with new skin (bark), showing that smooth bump that well pruned crape's have. Picture a clean set of "Y" shapes, perhaps clipped or encouraged to be "straight" instead of windy.

Here is a picture of a tastefully, horticulturally correct way of shaping crape's:

In addition to having an eye for the right outcome, proper tools are also needed to achieve a good showing crape: a sharp set of hand clippers, possibly a pole pruner using the saw attachment, possibly a ladder (with someone holding it at the bottom), a sharp silky saw, etc.

Also of note is the fact that if left in a stagnant area, crape myrtles may develop scale or a black residue on the leaves. This black residue is left there by the presence of bugs who will respond to #1 planting the crape in more of an "airy" environment and #2 treating with any over the counter sprays that you can find at Lowes.

When in doubt, call a professional tree service or landscape maintenance service!...but please, oh please don't just hack down this beautiful specimen in just any old fashion - we all have to look at that thing for the rest of the year as we drive by!

Columbia S.C. Job - Landscaping, Lawn Care, and Irrigation Repair and Installation

2010-01-16T19:38:00.000-05:00

Great Job in Columbia SC! Please Re Tweet: Landscaping, Lawn Care, Irrigation Repair & Installation: http://bit.ly/83Zbhf

Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia S.C. Is a Growing, Successful Company...

Do you have what it takes to help bring this company to the next higher level?

I am now accepting applications for Crew Leader 2010. Updated January 16th, 2010

Job Title: Lawn Care and Landscaping Crew Leader

Official Terms of Employment: Seasonal, Hours will vary.

Job Description: Lawn Care and Grounds Keeping; Sprinkler Repair & Installation & Logistics; Fertilizer prescription and application, Lime, Pre Emergent, Herbicide prescription and application, soil collecting analysis and visual turf condition analysis, Turf seeding; Driving & Maintaining the crew vehicles, Maintaining the Equipment (blade sharpening, mechanical repairs) or taking equipment to shop (for more complex repairs); keeping time sheets for each job, Sales and Bidding; Customer Relations, and LEADING your crew to success!

More Job Duties (very important): Since this profession is typically "seasonal", an annual, consistent employment will be supplemented by performing duties other than lawn care and landscaping tasks. These "slow time" duties will include but would not be limited to helping the owner with tasks like painting, pressure washing, small construction projects, moving, "gopher" or courier duties, and general assistance to the company owner. The crew leader would work closely with the company owner at times.

Base Location: West Columbia, South Carolina

How To apply: APPLICATIONS WILL BE TAKEN ONLINE ONLY. Do not call in or you will be disqualified – Please email busybeelawncare@gmail.com to request an application.

Landscaping and Lawn Care Job Summary:

The crew leader will take a company issued landscape maintenance vehicle home and must have adequate space, security, and approval to possess such a vehicle at their residence. The crew leader position requires the utmost level of workmanship, a sense of "completion" and "taste" on any given job, responsibility, and efficient time management. The crew member will be the primary mower operator but will often be expected to do manual labor, keep time records, make use of technology, email, text messaging, etc; navigate to the jobs, Coordinate the schedule and serve as a reliable resource for any other tasks deemed necessary by the company owner. The crew leader is responsible for the safety of themselves as well as any crew member working with them.

The Crew Leader will report to the Company Owner as to the general state of their crew, their route, and any other items of importance.

Special Requirements:

The candidate must have a minimum of 2 years’ professional experience in lawn care/landscaping/grounds maintenance, sprinkler system installation and repair. This experience must be accounted for and verifiable with references.

The candidate MUST own and maintain a reliable, presentable work Truck that will be used on occasion in the daily work duties including hauling mulch, rocks, etc. This truck must be insured, at least to the minimum requirements set forth by South Carolina Law, and the applicant must be listed as one of the insured parties for said vehicle. The candidate would be compensated on a mileage basis for the use of their pickup truck.

The candidate MUST have prior experience in irrigation and sprinkler system installation and repair. Competence in sprinkler systems is a core component of this position.

A valid South Carolina Drivers License will be required with no pending adverse violations

A SLED Background Check will be performed - eligible applicants should have absolutely no prior records of law violations on their record of any kind.

A current driving record will be requested - a clean driving record is mandatory with no violations within the last 2 years.

Drug Screening will be performed as deemed necessary by the company owner.

Responsibilities and Duties include but are not limited to:

Able to operate and demonstrate proficiency before hire with landscape maintenance, lawn care, and other equipment including but not limited to:

Walker Brand Riding Mower

Zero Turn Mower

Bluebird Aerator or other Aerator devices

Weed eater (2 stroke, requires fuel mixture) - MUST be able to do a sharp edge using "upside down" technique for edging turf. All applicants are expected to have mastered this skill before hiring.

Irrigation Tools, Sprinkler adjusting tools, Sprinkler System Diagnostic Tools, etc.

Push Lawn Mower

Self Propelled Push Lawn Mower

Gas Powered, hand held, “stick” edger

Gas Powered conventional edger

Backpack Blower

Hand tools (rake, shovel, and any other common hand tool used in landscaping, lawn care, and grounds keeping)

Light equipment

Wheel Barrow

Gas Powered Hedge Trimmer

Fertilizer Drop Spreader

And any other common piece of machinery deemed to be necessary to complete the task at hand

Air Tools

Able to consistently, safely, and accurately maneuver a landscape trailer towed behind pickup truck backwards and forwards.

Able to work in various outdoor places and circumstances including exposure to dust from various sources, direct skin contact with various plants & landscaping materials, varying degrees of noise, extreme weather conditions, heat, cold and pests.

Knowledge of safe operating practices in the work environment and with the various tools and machinery.

Must report malfunctioning equipment to the supervisor. However, if the equipment is down, work time is down, and paid time is down – it would be of benefit to the crew member to develop skills in small engines in order to keep the equipment in top working order.

Other duties will be assigned by company owner as needed

Qualifications

The crew leader must be able to perform each duty satisfactorily (at the discretion of the company owner and your working peers). The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required:

Experience/Education Requirements

This position requires a high school education and at least 2 years related experience in the green industry (lawn care, landscaping, and grounds maintenance). The candidate must have significant experience in irrigation repair and installation. The candidate must have the ability to comprehend, communicate and execute orally spoken directions and instructions to the satisfaction of the company owner and working peers. The position requires the use of text messaging, email, gps navigation, internet...all tools that help us get the jobs done efficiently. The candidate must have a personal computer with access to internet and email and the ability to use these items effectively.

Mathematical Proficiency

Proficiency in Basic math skills required in order to calculate gas/fuel mixtures for the gas powered equipment, navigation on roads, timesheets, job cost calculations, etc.

Communication and Language Skills

Must be fluent in The English Language. Proficiency in Spanish is a plus but not required.

Other abilities and skills

Marketing and sales skills, people skills, likeable personality and networking skills are required. You will often be required to satisfactorily interact effectively with other staff members, the customers, and the company owner.

Physical Demands

The physical demands described below must be met by the crew member to successfully, safely, and efficiently perform the functions of this job position.

The employee is frequently required to stand upright, crouch, walk quickly, sit down, and negotiate physical orientation in various situations (such as mounting and dismounting power equipment).

A satisfactory demonstration of coordination and dexterity is required of this position. The employee is frequently required to use their hands in order to control the various power equipment, operate the machinery, drive vehicles, use hand tools, and help maintain the power equipment. The employee is frequently required to reach with their hands and arms fully extended, climb (no tree climbing required), balance themselves, kneel down, crouch and crawl, and move around quickly.

The employee is required to be able to speak clearly and audibly and to hear sufficiently.

The employee must be able to frequently move up to 20 pounds and occasionally lift and move up to 70 pounds.

This employee’s vision must be clear and fully functional to safely and satisfactorily operate the equipment, complete the tasks at hand, and drive a vehicle. Eye protection will be required at all times.

Work Environment

The work environment that will be encountered by the crew member will include, but will not be limited to, the examples below.

While performing the duties of this job, the employee frequently works with mechanical, gas/electrically powered objects and equipment

The employee works in outside weather conditions every day consisting of extreme heat in the summer (upwards of 104 degrees) and cold in the winter (as low as 20 degrees).

The employee is exposed to various fumes, airborne particles of all sorts, and occasional toxic or caustic chemicals (herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, etc).

The noise level in the work environment is occasionally loud. Hearing protection will be required (and supplied)

Compensation

$12/hour, seasonal, hours will vary. Sometimes there is an overwhelming amount of work, sometimes there is very little work. Hours available are awarded to the most productive workers. Bonuses paid to the crew leader at the discretion of the company owner and according to the productivity of their route. Overtime and extra work may be available seasonally but no claim to volume of hours is made. Work delegation is at the discretion of the company owner.

Thank you for your interest in employment with Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC. I look forward to working with you!

Best Regards,

ash

Ashley Brooks
Owner, Busy Bee Lawn Care LLC

Neighborhoods in the Columbia, S.C. area

2010-01-08T09:10:00.001-05:00

If you are not from Columbia, S.C. you might be interested in knowing what neighborhoods are in the area. It can be said that there are 6 main areas that people refer to in general when speaking about the East side of the river: Downtown Columbia, Forest Acres, Arcadia Lakes, Garners Ferry Area, Fort Jackson, and Northeast Columbia. When referring to the West side of the river, there are 6 areas that are commonly referred to: Cayce, West Columbia, Springdale, Irmo, Lake Murray, and Chapin.

Downtown Columbia is definately growing. Having grown up here and lived here for 40 years, I have seen Columbia go from a non growing, more traditional area to a more progressive area interested in new building endeavors, new parks (we have a new baseball stadium for Gamecock Baseball), and new ways of life. The Vista is the hot spot downtown. This is where all the popular night life is located; where all the interesing clubs, bars, etc are within walking distance of each other. As far as living quarters downtown, there are these new, trendy loft apartments everywhere. Many of these loft apartments are new, but some of them are built in remodeled, historic buildings. Some cool downtown neighborhoods in my opinion are Governor's Hill, Laurel Hill, Shandon, and Melrose Heights.

Going East and away from the bustle a bit, you come into Forest Acres. This is where I grew up. Forest Acres is kindof a bubble in which everything you need in life just about is contained in that area. You can ride for hours on the wooded, windy, well planned roads and never leave "acres". The police are known to do a really good job, it is secure and relatively low in crime. There are older houses there, newly remodeled houses of all sizes, and new homes to choose from. There is a "Fresh Market", a Publix, a really good Pancake house, great schools (for kids, Satchel Ford Elementary is wonderful), and great people.

Right on the edge of Forest Acres is the separate Township of Arcadia Lakes. As the name implies, this area has a few lake properties...small lakes. This is also a wonderful area to live and raise kids.

Northeast Columbia, S.C. is a booming area and is home of the original (in my opinion) upscale neighborhoods. Spring Valley High School and the Spring Valley Country Club Area are the center of the Northeast Area. Stretching out towards Elgin, you have a huge new growth area comprised of The Summit, Lake Carolina, and many other subdivisions which, in my memory used to be woods and fields. All of these areas are about a 20-25 minute hop on I-20 or I-77 to the Downtown Columbia Area.

West Columbia refers to the areas west of the river. Right next ON the river you have several options for real estate - new houses for sale, great apartment living (Granby Crossing is on the river, Granby Oaks is off the river), and a small town environment right on the cusp of Downtown Columbia...close enough, but far enough away to not be in the middle of the downtown bustle. Stretching out towards the lake, West Columbia has a few great neighborhoods, but my favorite are Westover Acres and Saluda Chase. West Columbia is also a great place to live, work, and raise kids. Some of the schools are Pine Ridge, Saluda River Academy for the Arts, Providence Presbyterian Child Development Center, and many more. In the past, this area has been known to be more of a "middle working class" area. It has developed into more of a "blue collar business owner" area and the home to many of Greater Columbia Area Contractors as many of those workers became business owners.

Heading out West up highway 378, you come into the Lexington Area. Lexington has many newer neighborhoods including Whiteford and dozens more. In the Lexington, S.C. Area you can enjoy everthing from Country Club living at Golden Hills to Lake living at Lake Murray. The schools in this area are known to be the best in the South.

Irmo, S.C. is another pocket of goodness. Being right next to the lake, you can enjoy access to the lake without the high cost. Irmo is famous for the "Okra Strut", which is a festival that they have every year. Irmo High School is one of the best in the area. Although not technically an Irmo Address, one of the hot spots in the Irmo Area is the Columbiana Mall Strip - including the largest shopping areas in Greater Columbia. Lawn Services in Irmo, S.C. are always a pleasure because of the high level of attention people give to their yards.

We look forward to having you as a new neighbor or visitor! If I can be of assistance in any way, just visit my business website and find my contact information: I am Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care

What Grass Grows in Shade?

2009-12-22T16:18:00.000-05:00

What lawn grass grows well in the shade? Speaking in terms of my lawn service area in Greater Columbia, S.C. the three yard grasses that come to mind are Zeon Zoysia, Winter Rye Grass and St. Augustine in that order. Here's Why:

Zeon Zoysia is a great pick if you have items like sticks, cones, hickory nuts, acorns, or any other debris falling from the trees above. The reason is that Zeon is a tighter knit turf that is more easily cleared of these items with a blower. The debris stays more at the top of the turf rather than nestling down toward the soil and the root system. Zeon is also known for its shade tolerant qualities.

Winter ryegrass will grow just about anywhere as long as the weather is cool and there is sufficient moisture. Rye will definately grow in the shade. If you are in the Lake Murray Area and you have that moist, compacted red clay, shaded type yard, rye is sometimes all that will grow due to these conditions. Rye grass is often used to overseed the hot season grasses (Bermuda is best if overseeding with rye) at banks, offices, and Strip Malls from October to about March to keep a green, healthy appearance.

St. Augustine Grass is another great pick for shady areas where nothing else will thrive and grow. In my experience though, St. Augustine is a grass who's pH level needs to be kept up with more than others. St. Augustine is also very suceptible to fungus, chinchbugs, and grubworms. Although St. Augustine does do decent in the shade here in S.C., from a maintenance standpoint it is very difficult to keep it healthy when there are acorns, hickory nuts, cones, sticks, etc present. These items get stuck down in the turf, near the root system, making it hard for the grass to thrive. Normally, these items can be blown away easily, but with St. Augustine, a significantly higher amount of time needs to be spent removing debris.

So the next time you are looking at that bare lawn and wondering which grass to plant that would work well in the shade, look up at the trees, determine if you have debris falling down on the turf, and consider the amount of light that is making its way to the ground.

The Giant Lowes Rock - who would buy that thing?

2009-12-19T09:38:00.000-05:00

Ah Saturday December 19th in Columbia, S.C. The ground is sopping wet, the temperature is hovering around 38 degrees, and everyone is bustling about getting ready for my Son's 3rd Birthday Party Today. In the spirit of doing what-I-can as the man of the house, I get the bright idea that maybe now is a good time to cover that water well in the back yard that has been exposed now for over a year. Time to head to Lowes and get that giant, over priced rock that people surely ask themselves as they pass - "who in the world would buy that thing?"!

After talking the Lowes Associates into unscrewing this, the last remaining well cover rock, from the pallate, I threw it over a shopping cart and proceeded towards the checkout counter. Shoppers were pointing and laughing, associates at the customer service counter were peeping over their cubicle wall, and the checkout lady snickered and asked "where's the sku number?!".....LOL

I must say, it was heavier than I thought...and unweildy as anything I've dealt with in a while. Nevertheless, I chucked it up into the Busy Bee Lawn Care Truck and slowly drove home...

So I finally get the thing home and ceremoniously, my wife and I take our new pet rock to the back yard to its final resting place - under which is now a home for frogs, snakes, and all sorts of gooey things. The well Saga is Over! What a long and expensive journey it has been! So if you have ever wondered what kind of clown would buy that big rock at Lowes, now you know :)

Happy Birthday Brennan - Daddy Bought you a Rock! :)

Lawn Services in Columbia SC

2009-12-16T10:45:00.000-05:00

Lawn Services in Columbia S.C. can take care of anything from a simple "mow and go" to the more complex tasks such as sprinkler system repair or turf chemical treatments. Here are some tips (that go beyond just prices!) on how to pick a lawn company in the Columbia, S.C. area.

If the sole purpose now and in the future of you hiring a lawn maintenance company is to mow the grass, then be very careful who you pick as this point, although seemingly simple, can cost you alot of money in the long run. Cutting the grass is not as simple as it seems. If your turf is cut too short, bagged too often, or cut in the middle of a drought, you could be making a very costly mistake by hiring a low paid, inexperienced, fly by night company. Replacing sod can cost you thousands of dollars and the uninsured lawn maintenance company is not likely to ever accept liability for mistakes.

On the other hand, lawn companies who are expected to go beyond a simple mow and handle grounds maintenance should not only cut grass, but also handle landscape maintenance tasks such as proper shrub pruning, soil analysis, roof cleaning, mulch installation, the more intricate tasks that come with working in any given yard. These tasks are a learned, professional skill that comes with experience and education.

In addition to being able to do the laborsome tasks, a company of quality has a well developed and managed system in place to take the burden of your yard away from you - isn't that what you are paying for?! A good company manages the route where jobs are done in a timely, reliable fashion, bills you accurately and in a timely and simple fashion, and employs trustworthy, well groomed professionals to service your property.

So the next time you are in the market for yard services, dig deep, ask questions and save your valuable time by picking the right service with the right lawn care prices the first time.

How to Remove a Dead Tree Without Calling a Tree Removal Service

2009-09-08T16:04:00.004-04:00

If you're looking for a way to remove a dead tree and avoid calling an experienced tree removal service there are several things to seriously consider. Tree work, although it looks easy, is full of many uncontrollable and unpredictable forces.

If the tree to be removed is near a powerline, a house, a fence, a septic tank, or any other item of importance, it is generally a good investment to simply call on a tree company. If the diameter of the tree is less than about 6 inches or so, keep reading.

At 6 inches or less with little brush to handle, to be sure the tree falls where you want it to fall, attach a rigging rope ($50-$100) to a point on the tree towards the middle to top whereby you can have someone pull on the tree (someone strong and agile) to coax it in the right direction. Once secured, making sure that everyone is paying attention and clear of the fall zone (or ready to quickly clear the fall zone), make your notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want the tree to fall. In other words, if you want the tree to fall to your left if you're looking at the tree, make a "V" shaped notch in the tree on the left side.

Once your notch has been cut, proceed to cut the other side of the tree to be removed inwards towards the "V", making a "hinge" whereby the cut is slightly above the "V". This hinge will help prevent the tree from sliding backwards and help you direct the fall. With the helper pulling the rope attached, give warning when you feel that it is going to drop and yell "timber!".

It is quite an exhilarating moment when the tree falls to the ground!

If the tree is larger than 6" or so in diameter or if you simply want to leave it to a company who has experienced climbers and linemen, call on a tree removal company. Experience in climbing, saws, ropes and knots, and those unpredictable moments definately count, in my opinion, where tree work is concerned.

How to grow winter rye grass for a green lawn all winter

2009-09-04T15:30:00.004-04:00

Often times in the more and more distant past, I used to worry about what work I would have for my crew and myself during the dormant grass season. For some lawn care companies, right around October 15th here in Columbia, South Carolina signals the start of either a long down time or a start of something new to do other than cut grass. What I do on many accounts to the delight of my customers is sow a winter rye grass lawn from seed.

To grow a winter rye grass lawn, you must first determine if it is appropriate to overseed the area that you have in mind. Overseeding St. Augustine or Centipede, for instance, with annual or perennial rye grass is a no-no in my book...unless you plan on renovating that area altogether in the spring when the rye is done.

Annual rye grass, when sown around the end of September will last until about May under some conditions. Perennial will last a bit longer, but is more of a permanent lawn. In this case, I'm speaking of overseeding with annual where you plan on letting your warm season grass come back in the coming spring.

At any rate, bermuda or bahia are the ideal warm season grasses to be overseeding. Another ideal area is a bare, spindly growth yard that is dry, fallow, and void of any attractive growth in the warm season. These ugly areas under trees, on slopes, etc can be absolutely beautiful and the envy of your neighbors if properly sown with rye grass in the fall.

If you plan on selling your home starting in the fall, spreading rye grass may be a great investment because it could make your house much more appealing.

Prepare the area by mowing the warm season grass really close. After a good close mow, bagging or collecting the clippings, make sure to rake away as much debris as you possibly can. Your goal is good seed to soil contact.

Once clear, spread your seed! Water the grass until it sprouts, then cut back on the watering. Once it sprouts, fertilize it. It grows really fast so plan on cutting it much more frequently.

Busy Bee Lawn Care is known for great rye grass lawns in the cool season. Look us up or give us a call today for a quote!

How to replace a sprinkler head

2009-07-22T16:00:00.004-04:00

The first thing you need to do when you are doing any kind of sprinkler repair is to know where all the components are located. The questions you should have answered are where is the main water shutoff valve, where is the zone valve and what is the plan of action if there is an uncontrollable leak (call the sprinkler repair service!).

Assuming you have those answers, you can then proceed and replace the spinkler head. First, identify the problem. Is the problem in fact the sprinkler head itself or is it the valve or the irrigation control panel? If you have verified that it is the head, you can then make sure that the valve is in the off position and remove the head.

To remove the head, you may have to cut out some of the turf in the shape of a "donut" from around the head (most of the time you don't have to remove any sod, just wrench the head off through the turf with a large adjustable wrench). This will allow you to grip the head from the top. Twist the head left (loose) and very carefully pull it out of the hole. If any debris gets in the hole, it can clog the head (unless you know how to flush the head). With the head out, quickly exchange the old head for new, twisting the new head in place of the old head on the "ELL" pipe at the bottom of the hole.

Adjust the fixed, justified side of the sprinkler pattern: some heads are justified on the right side (Hunter), some on the left (Rain Bird). You will need to be familiar with how the head works in order to properly adjust this first and most crucial adjustment step.

Once the sprinkler head is twisted in to the right degree, you can then turn on the zone manually or by way of the control panel. Once you have water spraying through the sprinkler head, using the proper key for that popup, rotor style head, you can then adjust the spray pattern.

Submitted by: Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Sprinkler Repair Service, Columbia S.C.

Sprinkler Repair for Lawn & Garden Irrigation Systems

2009-07-21T16:09:00.003-04:00

If you live in Columbia, South Carolina you probably have been experiencing the dry conditions we have been having lately. This occurs just about every year - the spring comes, everything starts to grow, then the summer sets in and we experience a drought, which dries out the new growth and forces the plants, particularly the grasses, to go dormant. If you currently have a sprinkler system, you may be in need of sprinkler repair. If you have an old yard, you may not have a system at all!

Sprinkler systems are quickly becoming more and more popular. Particularly, underground irrigation systems that are controlled with a control panel, have zones and valves, and have several sprinkler heads that pop up out from below the turf line.

Many new houses have sprinkler systems already installed in the front yard. Often times, the side yards and the back yard is left with no sprinkler system and no grass to speak of (maybe some hydro seed which is temporary). In this case, you would need to have some zones tapped into your existing system.

Most older houses didn't come with sprinkler systems installed. The lawns of past seem to have gotten by with either water from the sky or the above ground hoses and sprinklers that can clutter a yard and prove to be ineffective and inconsistant over time. If you decided to get a sprinkler system for an older house, the pricing would be higher because there is no backbone system to tap into. Some of the core components like the control panel, wiring, pvc piping, valves and valve boxes, etc would be built into the price of a new system.

For either new homes or old, there will come a time when you are in need of sprinkler system repair. When the time comes, it may be a good idea to call on a professional who is familiar with sprinkler system repair practices.

2009-06-15T09:32:00.001-04:00

Lawn mowing season is in full swing! Visit our website for more information: www.BusyBeeLawnCare.com

Lawn Maintenance Services Columbia South Carolina

2009-02-23T08:38:00.007-05:00

If you are searching for lawn maintenance services in Columbia, S.C., be aware that not all companies are alike. "Value" is an aspect of any company in the current economy that should be taken into account. Alternately, "price" is a criteria that one should be careful with as a prudent choice could mean the difference between overall customer satisfaction and failure in a business relationship. Value, Experience, and communication are crucial elements that should be considered when choosing a lawn maintenanace service.

Value in lawn mowing, gardening, groundskeeping, and the landscape maintenance business is something that is increasingly sought after by the customer as it should be in any economy. The company who can go over and above the standard service and deliver more than the customer bargained for in a deal is likely to thrive in this environment.

Experience and professionalism is another aspect of lawn maintenance services that should be seriously considered. If a less experienced worker scalps a lawn or weakens the turf by cutting the grass too short and/or too often, the long-term cost of that service is inflated. Also, few workers have a feel for when to mulch grass and when to bag the clippings. Replacing sod is a costly endeavor. If the companies you are considering do not specialize in lawn care, you would be best advised to not employ those companies.

Communication between the residential or commercial lawn customer, the company supervisor, and the labor staff is the third crucial element. Email is one way that customers can relay their wants, concerns, and needs to the lawn service manager. In this way, there is a paper trail of items that have been asked for and negociations that have been made. The customer deserves and should demand effective communication when it comes to their yard services.

Cutting grass is no longer a casual labor service where the "here today gone tomorrow", inexperienced companies or individuals can thrive - the customer can no longer afford to pay for the mistakes that these lesser experienced services can make! Customers deserve a valuable service whereby their money goes a long way and where they are content with the beauty in their lawn that they bargained for. A strong relationship involving a high level of effective communication can make the difference.

Lawn Fertilization Service in Columbia South Carolina

2009-02-09T15:59:00.002-05:00

Proper lawn maintenance goes much further than just fertilization and mowing. The greenest, most lush and healthy grass is a result of an annual treatment program, which does include lawn grass fertilization service, but goes much further. Below is a breakdown of each service for a moderate maintenance, centipede or St. Augustine lawn (as opposed to a high maintenance football field!).

In January, a soil test is recommended. The pH of the soil must be measured in order to know whether to add lime or not (high pH calls for the addition of other chemicals). Usually, though, in Columbia S.C. the pH falls low towards the “acidic” level. Simply spreading granular lawn lime at the proper time will amend this acidic condition and give your turf a great head start.

In February, you want to start preparing to fend off the weeds that appear in the growing season. As early as the 2nd week in February, you can apply a pre-emergent (like Dimension granular) to prevent the summer weeds from even sprouting.

If, in February, you have weeds that have already “emerged” and are showing, you can treat them with a “post” emergent, topical spray or prevent them altogether. Read on…

Just before the grass growing season starts, you may want to get a sprinkler system checkup. This consists of checking all of the valves for proper sealing, checking the programming of the master control panel, and checking the sprinkler heads for coverage, breakage, or anything else that might have gone wrong.

In April, what is commonly sold and referred to as “weed and feed” is applied. Weed and feed will shore up your weed prevention measures as well as feed the newly sprouting grass growth with the nitrogen food it needs. Weed and feed should not be applied to new sod.

During the hot, dry summer, your turf is growing and using a lot of nitrogen. It is at this time that you should apply a high nitrogen fertilizer (with no weed treatment included). Carolina Special is not a bad product, but we tend to use products that are specific to the individual yard’s needs and conditions (light, moisture, type of grass, etc).

Core aeration service is something you may need. If your turf gets a lot of traffic and is compacted, if you see moss, if you have bare spots or waterlogged spots, you are a prime candidate for a core aeration service. Core aeration literally takes a plug out of your lawn, thousands of them (12 per square foot is best), and flings the core up to the surface to melt back to the turf when watered. This “aerates” the turf, allowing the roots to get air and nutrients to them (plants roots need air too!).

Also during the summer, bugs can wreak havoc on your lawn. Bugs will feed on the root systems of grass and destroy the turf that you have worked so hard to grow. With St. Augustine, in particular, chinch bugs and grub worms are the main pests that you are after. Lawn bug and pest treatment can be done by spreading a granular bug killer like “Bayer” Brand. This treatment plan also needs to be tailored to the specific yard and done with care so as to not harm animals, children, or “good” bugs (yes, there are good bugs in your yard too!).

As stubborn broadleaf weeds occur, I recommend you “spot treat” them with an aggressive herbicide like Roundup or the blend I use, Roundup “Pro”. You will kill the weed to the root then simply weedeat the weed away when it has yellowed. You will, of course, kill surrounding “good” turf with this treatment, this is why you have to be very careful with overspray.

Your goal with weed control should also be to nurture the “good” grass so it grows so well that it squelches out or “chokes out” the bad, unwanted weeds. A “weed” is defined as anything that grows that you do-not-want to grow.

Right about the time that fall comes, you need to be preparing your lawn for the winter. This is commonly referred to as winterizing or “winterization”. The only aspect of winterization that I personally recommend abiding by is the weed prevention component. This pre-emergent is mixed in with other chemicals (which again, I don’t think you really need) and will prevent the WINTER weeds from emerging (those weeds that may be in your lawn in February). In a nutshell, put down some pre-emergent for the 2nd time of the year in the fall.

Another thing to do in the cool season is to “decommission” your sprinkler system. This means that compressed air is forced through your system at some point, forcing all of the water out of the system through the sprinkler heads. What this does is prevents frozen pipes from expanding and breaking, saving you time and money for the season ahead when you start the system back up.

Enjoy the BEST in service, communication, and competitive pricing: Call Busy Bee Lawn Care today and talk to Ashley!

(803)331-5323
BusyBeeLawnCare.com

When is the best time to apply pre-emergent to lawn

2009-02-02T10:58:00.002-05:00

Weeds - Heading them off at the pass. When is the best time to apply pre emergent to the lawn, turf, and beds. What do you use to prevent weeds? What is the best pre-emergent herbicide product?

Within the next 3 weeks, your worker bees will be applying pre-emergent (weed preventer in spreadable, granular form) to the customer's lawns and beds. Pre-emergent will prevent summer weeds from even beginning to grow, therefore saving time and money (and unsightliness) in the coming months. Pre-emergent is easiest to apply in granular form, with a spreader, in an even manner and in accordance with the instructions on the label.

Note: weeds that are currently "emerged" or growing or green in your lawn now will not be affected. Also, pre-emergent will weaken your cool season grass, but as long as your rye grass or fescue is established, it should not kill it out.

The cost of this application varies, but customers who are on the regular route of the lawn care company will usually enjoy a much cheaper price. The other application of pre-emergent during the year, the October application, will prevent "winter" weeds (like you may have now) and is projected to be the same price, but market cost of materials will determine for sure (fertilizer is supposed to skyrocket this in 2009).

Would you like to be on this application cycle? If so, contact me and I will be glad to make you one of my customers!

Pricing Lawn and Yard Care Maintenance Services Prices

2009-02-01T07:27:00.006-05:00

Pricing Lawn Care and Landscape Maintenance Services and the various prices for such services can be a challenge to the shopper. Especially if you are after the lowest price lawn maintenance only and are not considering quality or accountability. Below is a guide that may be of help to you when choosing a company to do your residential or commercial grounds keeping.

Landscape Maintenance represents a significant expense to you. I am offering a way for you to save a significant amount of money while maintaining your outdoor property to the level of beauty of your liking.

Many lawn or landscape maintenance companies and services fall short because they either underbid and do not do the tasks to the level and expectation of the customer or they overbid and charge the customer an exorbitant amount of money over the fair market cost of such services, protecting themselves in case of the worst case scenario as far as labor needs (a heavy growth year, a high fertilization need year, a heavy leaf or pine straw cleanup year, etc). Very few are on target at fair market value for labor.

Fixed price bidding is a faulty method! If you are currently paying a fixed price for landscape maintenance, this solution is for you!

THE Solution to your grounds keeping needs is the Busy Bee Lawn Care Hourly Rate Agreement:

 Cap on Hours – Initial agreement starts with an estimated number of hours needed for that month. For your particular landscape management needs, I will propose we start with a cap of ever how many man hours in the first month you need and adjust that monthly hourly cap up or down from there and on an as needed basis.

 No matter what the approved cap is, you are only billed for the time spent working on your property, not the max cap hours unless all of those hours are needed. Billing is done on the 28th of every month by email or mail.

 Materials are only billed if they are used – sometimes you may need things like lime or post emergent herbicide. Other times you may NOT need these things. If you do not need them, you are not billed for them. If you do need them, as a customer of Busy Bee, you will enjoy the least amount of markup in the industry; we receive discounts on materials and are not in the business of up selling materials. Where materials are concerned, you will be presented with a fixed cost on materials and installation of those materials before those materials are installed. You will have the option of installing or not installing those materials.

 Our workers work fast using only the best power equipment available, we are dependable, professional, exercise a high level of customer service and communication and most importantly attentive to the time spent on the job.

Price breaks (or “rebates”) are sometimes given at the discretion of Busy Bee depending upon the economy, fuel prices, etc. Also, often times in the slow season (winter), we have a surplus of labor on our hands – I offer my customers specials on labor in times like these for any extra projects you may want us to tackle. If we can afford to give you a break, we will certainly pass that savings on to you!

We only do what needs to be done, when it needs to be done paying attention to the condition of the grass, the season, the variances of nature, your budget, etc. This applies especially where grass is concerned: Mowing the grass too often for the sake of “earning the keep”, for example, can be very bad for the grass (or bushes, etc). Bagging instead of mulching every single time is definitely bad for the grass. If your current crew is showing up every week or 2 weeks on the dot to mow the grass they are potentially doing a disservice to your lawn (does it look weak, sparse, stressed?). Our goal is maximum beauty and health for the plants while maintaining a neat, even appearance. We do also realize that your budget may not allow “the full package” so we will accommodate your tolerance in that regard.

 If this agreement does not meet your needs or does not work out for some reason, all you have to do is have a new contractor come in – you have no risk involved and no contractual obligation to Busy Bee. We’ll even help you find a new contractor!

This worksheet below is designed to help you find out if you are paying too much, too little, or just the right amount of money for your yard work, grounds keeping, lawn care, or any other physical labor related to landscape maintenance.

Fill in the blanks below, then tally up the number you get. Compare that dollar amount to the amount that you are currently paying. Keep in mind that this calculation is for labor and not materials (fertilizer, mulch, flowers, etc):

 How many hours per month and how many workers does it take for your current service to maintain your property? If, for example, you observe 2 workers working for 1 hour, that is considered to be 2 “man hours” of labor __________

 What are you currently paying per month for landscape maintenance? $_________

 What amount of money is being spent on materials every year (divide that number by 12)? Annualization of the materials cost is important because large install costs like pine straw, mulch, flowers, or fertilizers do not occur in even amounts every month. If you do not know how much is being spent on materials, you should! Companies sometimes double their cost for materials and pass that expense down to you! Subtract that monthly materials cost from your total bill:
$_________

Divide the amount of money on the bottom line by the amount of time they are actually spending working on your property. Example: Total bill is $1000/month. Subtract $100/month in materials. Then $900/month divided by number of hours spent, say, 13 man hours. The total that you are paying, then, for labor is an exhorbitant $70/man/hour!

Busy Bee Lawn Care charges $40/man/hour – Take the hours spent and multiply it times $40. That is what your charge would be with Busy Bee Lawn Care.

• If that dollar amount that you are currently paying equals the dollar amount you calculate below, then your current service is probably fairly compensated, content with the account and doing a good job as a reflection of them being content.

• If you calculate that your current landscape maintenance company is spending a significant amount of time less than what you are being billed for, then they are probably very content with the contract, doing a super job, showing up on time, etc. The downside, though, is that you as a customer are paying that much money in excess of the market value of a fully equipped landscape maintenance crew. Here is where you can save a significant amount of money by switching to a company who is geared towards an hourly rate and not a fixed rate “bid”.

• If, you come up with a dollar amount that is significantly more than the dollar amount that you are currently being charged, your current service is underpaid and you are probably dealing with shortcomings as a result (they are not trimming bushes like they should, not fertilizing, not taking care of debris removal, etc). Take a look at the situation: are your grounds being kept up to your liking? Is your current service reliable? Is your current service employing illegal labor in order to make ends meet? Do you find yourself switching from service to service every year because they are not meeting your expectations? These things happen as a result of the landscape, lawn care, and grounds keeping company “under bidding” or not charging enough money to give you good service. How long can a company in that position last? They won the “bid” but are they delivering? Where landscape management is concerned, you truly do “get what you pay for”.

Busy Bee Lawn Care Customarily
Charges $40/man/hour

Busy Bee Lawn Care – Professional landscape maintenance, lawn care, and grounds keeping charges the customer an hourly rate for as little or as much grounds maintenance as you want or can afford. You regulate the level of beauty and maintenance from the cost standpoint, we manage the grounds. Low maintenance calls for low hours which results in a low cost. High maintenance would merit a higher cost. Our hourly price, nevertheless, is calculated given the current “lowball” market price plus the current “high” market price, then dividing by two; we charge the average, correct market price for Columbia, S.C. for fully equipped, seasoned, licensed and insured legal American, professional workers. We work fast, take few breaks, and keep up with our time to the minute, billing you by email at the end of each month. Our level of communication and customer service is unmatched.

Give me a call, email, text, or invitation to “bid” and let’s find out how much money I can save you in 2009!

Thanks for considering Busy Bee Lawn Care as your “worker bees”!
Ash

Mr. Ashley Brooks
Owner/Operator
Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC
Based in Columbia, S.C.
www.BusyBeeLawnCare.com | ashleybrooks@sc.rr.com
Cell (803)331-5323 Phone or Text Message

Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

2008-11-13T09:41:00.000-05:00

Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

This time of year, the marketing gurus at the popular fertilizer companies start to figure out new and improved ways to get our money. Their high season has passed and they need a way to generate revenue for their company and make their jobs more secure. One of the items to look out for is the idea of “lawn winterization”, particularly where your warm season turf is concerned.

Winterization, theoretically, is a way to make your lawn “come back quicker and greener in the spring, continue the battle with pests, and prevent the winter loving weeds from popping up in the cool season”.

Although, in my opinion, it is true that you can prevent a few winter lawn weeds from emerging (the “pre-emergent” ingredient in many winterizers), it is a bit of a stretch to go so far as to say that the grass will come up greener and more healthy in the spring.

It’s also risky to add any fertilizer to your lawn when the cool season is approaching its first frost. Nitrogen (the “N” in NPK), could encourage new growth. If there is any new growth when the first frost comes the frost could damage the turf plant permanently.

Nature intends for some species of plants to rest in the cool season. Give your lawn a break from the chemicals, traffic, and all the activity of the growing season. If you mow the lawn, mow at the usual level, mulching the clippings and letting them fall to thatch and break down. Let the microorganisms do their duty and build that healthy, natural soil for your lawn that you are after. Fall is a time to turn off the sprinklers, crank up the fireplace, and enjoy some well earned time off.

By: Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care

When to Transplant Plants - Intuition Based Gardening

2008-09-30T16:47:00.002-04:00

AUTUMN HAS ARRIVED! If you're wondering when to transplant plants, here is some information.

Wow, how to begin, when I am gushing over with excitement for this time of year?!
While summer is all about groundskeeping and lawn maintenance (and trying to stay cool while maintaining a yard!), autumn is all about CREATING!

Yes, I know, it’s when things are seemingly ‘dying’; to me they are merely “going to sleep”. And, while they are slipping into this dormant state, I can slip my shovel up under their roots and MOVE THEM!

Why would I want to move my plants?

Well, I would not necessarily move all of them, just the ones that didn’t seem ‘happy’ where they were….the ones that didn’t bloom as nicely, grow as large as I’d hoped, or perhaps even looked pretty pitiful! Yes, now is the time I will move them. If they got to be a big clump of stems, branches , and roots, then I will divide them, and have EVEN MORE OF THEM for all the wonderful new beds I will be creating and enhancing!

And, if I have green thumb friends, I will make their day by sharing some of these divisions with them!

I can’t wait to prepare a new ‘room’; that is, an area partially enclosed by plantings to create a ‘quiet place’ filled with my favorite plants…I can’t wait to push my shovel into the dark, rich earth and turn that first bunch of dirt that begins my new planting. I will give my transplants a great start by adding a bit of mushroom compost~I never plant anything without it!

A good loosening of the roots, and into the ground it goes~I will soak the new planting, and continue to make sure it is moist, but not soggy. The fall rains will do the rest.

By wintertime, I’ll be back to maintenance, although it will be sporadic; more about that at another time!

Ahhhh, Autumn! A time to create, a time to divide, a time to plant…..and in the cool, crisp, sunny weather~what more can a gardener ask for?

Happy autumn gardening!

-By Betty bee (Ashley's Mom :)

Stay Tuned for More Gardening Tips from Betty!

How to Lay Sod

2008-06-24T10:19:00.005-04:00

If you live in the drought stricken South, you are probably wondering what do do about your grass lawn. If you know how to properly lay sod, you can renovate your turf and enjoy a new lawn to play on for the rest of the warm season. In this article, I am going to instruct you on the details of how to lay sod (install sod).

When you lay sod, you have to first decide what type of grass will grow well in your yard given the conditions. Only as a secondary consideration should you consider the type of grass sod to lay down based upon aesthetics (in my opinion). The main choices here in Columbia, S.C. are Centipede, St. Augustine Grass, and Bermuda Grass. If you have a low light situation, go with St. Augustine. If you have a heavily tread on area that you would like to maintain grass, go with centipede or bermudagrass. Centipede is the most widely used sod here in South Carolina because it holds up well to high traffic and the heat and drought that we have here. Once you have decided on what type of sod you are going to lay, you have to prepare the area.

To install sod properly, you must create a healthy environment for the grass to grow in. First, you must decide on how the grass is going to be watered. You can either get a below ground irrigation system installed or you can do a simpler spigot based sprinkler system. Which one of these you choose depends upon your budget and the size of the yard.

The next step is to remove as much non-dirt material from the top layer of the ground as possible. If there is existing grass, simply mow it to the ground as low as possible. If you have plenty of time, you can first herbicide it, then mow it down, ensuring that the roots are eradicated. Whichever way you remove debris is dependent upon the sod type you are going to install. St. Augustine, for instance, will take over centipede so completely eradicating the old centipede is not necessarily needed. Once mowed down, rake out the debris and dispose of it. If the soil is hard, till it to about 3 inches. If the soil is soft, tilling may not be necessary.

Next, I like to amend the soil with some lime. Simply spread the lime with a rotary spreader and water in. Lime will bring the pH of the soil out of acidity and into a more sweet pH range, which grass will thrive in.

After amending the soil, I like to haul in about 3/4" of good rich black topsoil. Get the screened topsoil. Spread the topsoil over the area that will have new grass installed.

As a super boost to the new sod, I also like to haul in a thin layer of mushroom compost mixed with other (special!) ingredients. This ensures that the new sod will "take" and root well for years to come. As an alternative, you can till in starter fertilizer, which is high in potassium, which helps boost root growth.

Skipping the topsoil and mushroom compost will work, but the sod will likely only last a couple of years at which time it will look bare and depleted. The deeper the roots can get in rich soil, the longer and thicker the grass blade will have the potential of being.

Once the dirt has been manually graded and smoothed with an extra wide landscape rake, it is ready for the new sod to be installed. Simply roll the sod out, butting up the ends and sides as close as possible to the next roll of sod. I like to roll the sod on the edges of the lawn first, that way I establish the curves in the beds that I like to do so much. Once all of the pallates of sod are all gone, a final step would be to roll the sod with a manual roller. Rolling the sod ensures that all of the roots are in contact with the soil.

Your newly installed sod should be watered twice a day for the first 2 weeks. After the grass is established, you should water frequently to ensure that it does not dry out. Do not cut your new grass for at least 6 weeks after it has been installed. When you do mow it, mow it high, mulch it frequently, and fertilize it properly.

Now that you know how to lay sod, you need the time to do it! If you don't have the time and if you want the greenest lawn on the block, give me a call! I serve the Greater Columbia, South Carolina Area with the best in lawn care, Busy Bee Lawn Care - my cellphone is (803)331-5323.

-Ashley Brooks, Owner/Operator, Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC

GROWING ROSES IN SOUTH CAROLINA - How to grow roses like a pro!

2008-06-08T20:58:00.003-04:00

GROWING ROSES IN SOUTH CAROLINA - By my friend, Billy

Growing roses can be fun and very rewarding as there are many different colors and fragrances of roses. I have been growing roses now for some thirty years and have learned over the years by trial and error which roses do best in our area as well as the best disease resistant and they type of soil needed to grow great roses.

LOCATION:

Location is key to growing roses. Select an area where you receive at least 8 to 10 hours of full sun each day. Morning sun is essential, but light afternoon shade is tolerated and even beneficial in hot summers.

SOIL:

Next roses need a good soil in which to grow. They grow best in a soil with a Ph of 5.5 to 7.0, rich in organic matter, with excellent drainage as they do not like to have their feet standing in water. If your soil is sandy or clay it can be improved with the addition of organic matter. Soil pH can be raised with the addition of lime (7 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet to raise the Ph). If you need to lower the Ph add powered sulfur according to directions.

SELECTING ROSES:

Look for roses with nice large canes and a good shape (similar to the outline of a vase), being open in the center for good air circulation and with no broken or dead canes. Your local garden shop is a good place to start and they can give you advice on the growing habits as well as disease resistant varieties.

TYPES OF ROSES:

First, you must decide what type of rose you want. Perhaps you will eventually want to try a variety for different locations in your yard.

1. Tea Roses are a multi-petal rose, typical of what most people think of roses. They are generally a fragrant rose and come in many colors. The beauty of this rose is that it continues to bloom if you are diligent at snipping off the dead blooms. Dead blooms sap the plant of vital nutrients, so dead heading (snipping) the dead rose is important. The blooms are large and gorgeous. This rose can survive in harsh winters but must be protected during snow season.

2. Floribunda is a pretty five-petal rose that blooms in beautiful large clusters. They are generally planted as a low hedge or a border plant. They generally bloom from June through October. Floribunda is a simple rose with a pretty, delicate appearance.

3. Grandifloras are great if you are a beginning rose gardener. This rose is extremely easy to grow and rewards you quickly with rich, abundant blooms in a variety of colors. They are a great cold weather rose and look beautiful in any garden or landscaping plan.

4. Climbing roses do well to decorate trellises, walls, or archways. They must be supported in some fashion though as they are climbers. Most of their blooms are at the midpoint and above. They add beauty to structures and are great for hiding ugly spots in your yard or garden.

5. Shrub roses grow in a rounded cluster, which makes them great for filling an empty space. These roses have an abundance of fragrant blooms and are very hardy and can stand harsh winters. They are also fairly disease resistant.

6. Mineature roses
These roses generally have no smell but grow great in containers as well as in a bed and are treated the same as the big roses.

PLANTING YOUR ROSES:
POTTED ROSES

When planting a potted rose you want to plant the rose at the same level as the ground or slightly higher as you want the bud union approximately 2 inches above ground level. Dig hole slightly larger than your pot as this will allow roots to spread and grow.

Make sure the bud union of the rose is at least 2 inches above ground level. There will be some settling of the bush and you need space for your summer mulch.
1. Fill in around the rose with soil. Firm soil around rose but do not stomp down. Water and let the soil settle. Fill the rest of the hole with remaining soil.
2. Mulch well with pine bark, pine bark mulch or rotten leaves as this will keep soil cool and moist during hot summer as well as discourage weed growth.
BARE ROOT ROSES

Note: Soak bare root roses in a bucket of warm water 8 to 10 hours or over night before planting. Remove any dead wood or canes before planting.

1. Dig hole approximately 20x20 inches. Add soil to hole making a cone shape with soil. Place rose on top of cone spreading roots along top of cone. Add water to hole and let drain. Add soil around rose and gently firm around rose. Water slowly and then add mulch or dry soil around rose. Water daily for several days until you see growth beginning. Once growth starts water at least one to two inches once a week and more during hot dry summer, keeping soil moist not soggy wet.

PRUNING:
The first step in spring pruning of Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and Climbing roses is to remove any canes that are dead or just old and non-productive. These canes are usually gray in color and scaly. To prune hybrid tea and grandiflora roses follow these steps:

1. High pruning for more flowers earlier or low pruning for fewer, bigger flowers later
2. Pruning to remove weak and crisscrossing canes
3. Removing growth an inch below a canker
4. Removal of damaged, dead, or broken canes back to healthy growth
5. Removing sucker growth as close as possible to main root.

Following these steps will encourage growth from the base of plant. This new growth or shoots will soon produce new canes which is the life of your roses. This new growth should not be confused with "suckers" which arise from the rootstock below the graft union. Remove all suckers.

The next step involves taking a good look at the bud union. If you have any old, dry scaly wood on the union, remove it. Use a dull knife to scrape the bud union to remove the scaly wood. By doing this it will again make it possible for new basal breaks to come about.

Remove all twiggy growth on the remaining canes. (Note: This type pruning on climbing roses should be done after they bloom in the spring.) Try to clean out the middle of the bush as much as possible. This allows for good air circulation to prevent insects and disease.

Comment: Always prune to an outside bud. The basic technique for most pruning is to cut 1/4 inch above the nearest outward-facing bud with the cut at a 45-degree angle (the higher point above the bud). This means when picking the point on a given cane to cut back to, make sure there is a good bud on the cane facing toward the outside of the plant. This will insure the growth of the new bud is to the outside, therefore keeping the center of the rose bush clear and open for air circulation. Seal cuts with Elmer’s glue to prevent disease

When pruning is completed remove any old foliage left on the canes and spray with a mixture of Funginex or Benomyl and Orthene or Diazinon as a clean up spray. Spray the entire bush and the ground around the bush.

The final product of your pruning should be a rose bush about 18 to 24 inches tall with 4 to 8 canes. Add some fertilizer and regular pest spraying, and that pitiful looking rose bush will soon give you a shower of flowers.

Floribundas are usually not pruned as severely as hybrid teas. Even so, be sure to remove any dead, broken, damaged, or blotched branches back to where the center of the cane is white and healthy looking. Next, remove weak, spindly canes, canes growing toward the center of the bush, the weaker of two canes that crisscross, canes that grow out, then up, and suckers, if any. Finally, trim all remaining canes back to one-half their former height.

Miniatures - In the spring it is best Shrubs - Remove any dead canes and lightly trim remainder of bush, removing about a third of the growth. Mass blooming is the aim with these roses. Additional light grooming throughout the year is encouraged since ever blooming varieties bloom on new wood. Varieties that bloom only once during the season should be pruned AFTER they have bloomed since they bloom on old wood.

General - If the bush is over two years old, cut out one or more of the oldest and largest canes using a keyhole saw. Also, clean off the bud union with a dull knife. Seal any large cuts with Elmer's glue. Remove debris from beds and any leaves remaining on bush after pruning is completed.

Deadheading Roses
Removal of spent blooms (deadheading) is an important summer maintenance practice for roses, especially the continuous blooming varieties. Removing the spent blooms conserves the energy the plant would normally use for seed production, encourages repeat flowering, and removes potential disease harboring sites. To deadhead, remove the flower by cutting back, at a 45 degree angle, to the first outward facing bud in the axil of a leaf with five leaflets.

The continuous blooming climbing rose is deadheaded a little differently. Remove the spent blooms just above the foliage, making sure not to remove any of the foliage since new blooms will be produced from the leaves immediately below old flower clusters.

Fertilizing
Because roses are heavy feeders, a routine fertilization program is important for plant health and vigor. To provide the proper nutrients for your roses in the amounts needed for optimum growth, it is important to first test your soil to determine its pH. before adding fertilizer. A soil test kit can be obtained by calling your county Extension office. The amount of fertilizer and types of amendments you apply will be determined by the results of the soil test. Following the recommendations will assure you will neither over nor under fertilize your roses. A soil test should be done prior to planting and every two to three years thereafter.

Soil texture, which is the relative percentage of sand, silt and clay composing soil, will influence the amount and frequency of fertilizer application. Sandy loams, for instance, will require more frequent applications because they drain rapidly, leaching essential nutrients. They contain little clay (and possibly organic matter) that would normally hold nutrients.

It is always a good idea to amend your soil with organic matter, such as humus, peat moss, manure or composted sewage sludge for an added source of slow release nutrients. The addition of organic matter will also improve the soil's drainage and nutrient holding capacity. It is recommended that two to four inches of organic matter be added and worked into new beds to a depth of 12 inches. Many gardeners find the combination of organic materials and a fast release, complete, inorganic fertilizer, such as a 5-10-5, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, works best to produce beautiful roses. Today there are several good rose fertilizers on the market that also have an insect control added into them which works systemically. These work great and help greatly in the control of insects.

Pruning
An area of concern for many gardeners new to growing roses is pruning. Why do you have to prune roses? What kind of tools do you need? When is the best time to prune? How do you prune? Does it matter what type of rose it is?
Basically, pruning is done to improve the appearance of the plant, to remove dead or diseased wood, to let in sunlight and air to the center of the plant and to control the quantity and quality of the flowers produced. Deadheading, or the removal of spent blooms during the season, encourages more blooms (on continuous blooming varieties), improves the appearance of the plant, and removes potential harboring sites for disease organisms.
Prune rose bushes to a uniform height, between 12 and 24 inches; remove suckers below the soil line.

The tools essential for pruning roses are pruning shears, long handled lopping shears and a fine toothed curved saw. All should be sharp to produce clean cuts and to avoid tearing or crushing the stems. When buying pruning shears, look for the hook and blade type, which have two cutting edges like a pair of scissors. The anvil type pruners, with one cutting edge, will crush the stem. Long handled lopping shears are best used on thick canes or ones difficult to reach with pruning shears. A fine toothed curved saw is used for larger climbing roses. You might also want to invest in a pair of heavy duty gloves to protect your hands from sharp thorns.
In general, roses should be pruned just before growth begins in March or early April. The exceptions are old (heirloom) roses and some climbers that produce blooms on the previous year's wood. They should be pruned after they bloom.

Pruning Bush Roses
Following a logical sequence of steps while pruning will help make the job seem less complicated. The first step is to remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood. Cut the stems one inch below darkened areas, making sure you are cutting back to green wood. Make the cut at a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inches above an outward facing bud. Inspect the center of the stem. It should be white. If tan colored, continue pruning sections of the stem until the center appears white.
The second step is to remove branches that grow toward the center of the plant. This opens up the plant for better air circulation and allows sunlight to penetrate the inner portion of the plant.

The third step is to locate crossing branches and remove the weakest one. Crossing branches may rub against each other, causing abrasions that may serve as openings for disease organisms to enter the plant. Remove sucker growth, which is growth coming from below the bud union. Sucker growth is from the root stock and is a different rose variety. If not removed, sucker growth will crowd out the desired variety.

Finally, prune to shape the plant. Hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas can be pruned 12 to 24 inches in height, leaving up to 9 to 12 large (1/2 inch diameter), healthy canes. Old, shrub and species roses should be pruned lightly, removing no more than 1/3 of the growth. Miniature roses need only minimal pruning.
After pruning seal cut surfaces of the stems to prevent rose cane borers from entering with Elmer’s glue.
Winter Protection
Reduce stress on roses going into the dormant season by irrigating adequately in late autumn and discontinuing fertilization in late summer or early autumn. Add mulch to a depth of 4 to 6 inches to cover bud union during winter to prevent freezing.

I hope this article will help and encourage you to try to grow roses in your garden.

For specific questions, you can contact Billy at this email address

How to get rid of weeds in your yard

2008-05-18T18:17:00.000-04:00

The question of how to get rid of weeds in your yard is a seemingly simple one, but realistically and scientifically a very complex issue. If you live in Columbia, South Carolina, I can potentially help you to professionally conquer the weed problem just visit my lawn maintenance company website. In this rambling, I am going to go over 3 of the main situations where weeds are concerned. Weeds can be caused by cutting too often and too short, by undernourishment and lack of care for the grass, and by normal annual infestation.

So you have a lawn maintenance company cutting your yard and doing your grounds keeping. They come like clockwork to cut the lawn – every 2 weeks on the dot the foreman is there with their big riding mowers, high dollar weed eaters and blowers, loaded down trailer rigs, and low paid day laborers. This is an empowering feeling for you as you have paid someone “professional” to do something for you that you do not want to do (or don’t have the time to do); the crew is there to serve you. It is an empowering feeling for that foreman guy because he is experiencing his version of the American Dream on his $11,000 lawn mower. The lawn looks great for a while, and then you notice a decline in the overall health over time. The grass is not as lush as it used to be, you notice a lot of dust, there are dips and thin spots in the turf, and you start wondering what is going on. After all, you are paying for “lawn care”. In reality, what you are experiencing more often than not is a “mow and go”. These guys do a really sharp job, are savvy with the gas powered equipment, but they are usually not in the least bit interested in the horticultural aspect of grounds keeping.

Grass is a plant. It needs to be cared for on a micro level just as any other plant. Grass needs watering at the proper times, cutting at the proper times and proper height; it needs fertilization and pest control, and it needs aeration and sunlight (and a break from the sunlight). The fact that your lawn has stripes in it and looks like the flat top hairdo of a drill sargeant does not mean that it is healthy.

What the mow and go is doing to your lawn is: compacting the soil due to the heavy equipment and vacuuming away precious mulched grass and the nutrients those clippings contain (grass clippings contain 5% nitrogen; grass is its own fertilizer!). The alternative to the industrial mow and go is to use a mulching push mower. Yes, a push mower! They are light, with a lighter blade, and can do a much better job of mulching the clippings. The lighter blade allows a nice clean cut on the grass (less than a clean cut leaves the ends split and susceptible to disease). Lighter mower means significantly less compaction of the turf. Less turf compaction means more air is getting to the roots. More air to the root system means more potential to take in nutrients and to get lush and green! If you must use heavy equipment, you should seriously consider getting your turf CORE aerated every year or as needed. If you don’t core aerate and you continue to use heavy equipment on your lawn, your green lush turf is on its way to declining completely and will cost you thousands of dollars to re-sod and renovate after just a few years’ time.

Cutting too often and too short are a problem that most mow and go companies don’t pay attention to. Once they load up the trailer and roll up to your lawn on the day that you are scheduled for service, they are usually not going to turn back. They have too much time and money invested in the trip over to your place to not do the job and gather that cash. They are paying helpers their hourly wage while riding in the truck on the way to your house. My point is this: the mow and go is not going to do the right thing which is to come to the house as scheduled, inspect the lawn, and act according to the need of the turf. If it is growing lush, green, and healthy go ahead with a cut. If not, let it grow out. When you do cut it, don’t cut any more than 1/3rd of the total length. I repeat, don’t cut it too short or you will encourage weeds, bare roots, and the general decline of your expensive sod!

This raises another point, the blade and the mower deck. A sharp blade will give you a good healthy cut. This is very important; do not dismiss this as unimportant! If your mow-and-go guy has a dull blade and a dirty deck, he is doing you a disservice. What’s more, you don’t know where that mower has been! The debris and weed seeds that stick to the underside of unclean, under serviced mower decks is a problem in and of itself!

Undernourishment and lack of care of your grass is a contributor to weed growth. If you want weeds, do not water your grass. If you like dandelions and those little yellow flowers that come up, do not care for your lawn in any way. If you want dull, grey, dusty lawn, do not fertilize. If you need fishing bait, do not treat for grub worms! If you do want as much beauty as your grounds can bear, you need to fertilize at the proper time, spread pre-emergent weed and feed at the proper time, water as the lawn needs it, and so on. In short, get a groundskeeping professional; a turf management specialist who has experience in not only running equipment and mowers but a genuine affinity for nature and horticulture.

Tip: A new turf in an average sized yard will cost you literally thousands of dollars!

My advice to you on how to control normal annual weeds in your yard is this: plan ahead and treat for weeds before they germinate. This means that in early spring, you need to go out there and spread pre-emergent herbicide. You can also “winterize” before winter to #1 get your root system beefed up and ready to pop with growth after the winter and #2 squelch any infestations of weeds. You also need to spread bug killer here and there to take care of beetles, grubs, etc.

Every yard is going to have the annual weed battle. If you don’t, you’re lucky. Sometimes no matter how good of a mower you have, how much fertilizer you use (to boost your “good grass” and help it to choke out the bad stuff), no matter how much pre-emergent you use to fend off weeds, or how much proper lawn care you exercise, you are still going to have to get down on your hands and knees and pull weeds up by hand. A weedeater is handy for mechanical removal as well. Just whack it! Try not to hurt the surrounding grass, but get that weed…uproot it if you are so inclined.

In summary, your yard is just like a stereo system: you can put as much or as little money into it depending upon how much beauty (or lack of beauty) you can stand. If you want a lush, green, weed free lawn that invites you to lay down on your back and look at the clouds go by on a nice spring morning, you are going to have to work for it – or hire someone to do that for you. Simply paying a guy with alot of equipment to come cut your grass every 2 weeks is a mistake that I see many many people doing.

Feel free to email me anytime, link to my articles, or call me to see if I can offer my professional assistance. I am Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia S.C., and I care about your lawn!

Landscape Mulch types - which bed dressing is right for you?

2008-04-26T11:21:00.000-04:00

Landscape mulch is a great way to make the yard look finished. Mulching is also a solution to problems with drought, weeds, and grounds maintenance issues. Having a landscaping company install (spread) the right type of mulch in your yard is critical to the overall outcome.

There are several different kinds of landscape supplies that you can use to mulch your beds, shrubberies, areas around trees, and playground areas. One of my favorite mulches is cedar mulch. Cedar is an aromatic wood that is a natural repellant to bugs. The beautiful appearance of cedar coupled with its functional qualities makes this a great bed dressing choice for near the house or in playground areas. Another favorite is pine bark mulch which is cheap, readily available, and rich looking. Hardwood mulches are popular as well. Hardwood mulch comes in natural color, black, red, and brown. Cypress is commonly used as a colored mulch.

The purpose of mulch is three fold. It will retain moisture in your flower and shrub beds to help when lack of rainfall is a problem. The right kind of mulch and color of mulch can increase the value of your home by a significant percentage. A good thick layer will greatly reduce the need for weed maintenance. The aesthetic value, vegetation conrol, and moisture retaining quality make mulching a worthwhile upgrade to your landscape.

Submitted by Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia S.C. 803)331-5323

Palm Tree Installation Service - Columbia, S.C.

2008-02-10T13:30:00.000-05:00

If you have ever driven down to Florida, you have no doubt seen the miles and miles of palm trees that line the highways and byways. Palm trees grow wild down in Florida - much different than here in Columbia, S.C. where you have to call on a palm tree installation service to enjoy the beauty of these trees.

Palm tree installation begins with the choosing of the palm that would work best for your landscape and your budget. There are dozens of different kinds of palm trees, but the most popular ones here in South Carolina are the Windmill Palm, the Sago Palm, the Palmetto Palm, and the Dwarf Fan Palm. The aforementioned palms are pictured below in the order in which they were mentioned.

Busy Bee Lawn Care would take great care to install your new palm tree on your property and guarantee the palm tree to live for at least one year! If you are in the market for a palm tree installation and you are in Columbia, S.C., give Busy Bee Lawn Care a call to schedule a free consultation - (803)331-5323, Mr. Ashley Brooks

Visit: Busy Bee Lawn Care for more company information - locally owned and operated!

What is the best Lawn Mower for Residential use or Commercial Use?

2007-12-31T14:34:00.000-05:00

I often get the question "What is the best Lawn Mower for Residential use or Commercial Use? The answer to this question depends upon the amount of use, the outcome of lawn cut you are after, the amount of money you want to spend, whether you want it to be portable, and many many other factors.

Money is generally the most important factor. The most expensive lawn mower that I have is a Walker Brand with the "GHS" or "Grass Handling System". The Walker is more of a commercial mower that goes for around $10,500. It collects the cut debris and shoots it under and back to a "hopper", which swivels up to dump the contents when full. The Walker Brand is a riding lawn mower. The controls on a Walker are more advanced than those of most mowers - you use your left fingers to go left and right and your right hand to control the forward control. A Walker Brand Mower will give you THE BEST cut of all commercial mowers in my opinion. The Walker also does a very good job of picking up other debris like leaves, pinestraw, or anything else that comes in its path.

A good pick for a riding lawn mower for the homeowner is the Snapper 28. This is the same mower that Forrest Gump was cutting the football field with. It's slow, but it makes a great, consistent cut. The Snapper line of riding mowers also does a satisfactory job of picking up light debris (like leaves). With a bagger "system", the Snapper Riding Lawn Mower goes for about $1750.

Another great commercial riding lawn mower is the "Zero Turn" mower. These monsters come in all sizes from Scag's 36" to ExMark's massive 72" width. As the name implies, these mowers turn on a zero radius - that means that they don't need much room at all to do a 180 degree turn to start the next line of mowing. I like my John Deere 54" "Z-Trac" 23 Horsepower. It does the big overgrown jobs that I come up on now and then. It will also do a fine job of regular mowing, but if given the choice, I use my Walker. Most Zero Turn mowers will mow through 15" tall grass with no problem! My John Deere goes for about $7500 new, but you can pick one up on ebay for ~$3000 or so depending upon how many "hours" it has on it.

The amount of hours on any mower you are considering depends, of course, on how long it has been in use. It is important to know, also, whether the mower has commercial hours on it or residential. If commercial, look for a mower with no more than 400 hours on it for maximum value. Hours in the range of 1000 or so are, in my opinion, too depreciated to enjoy maximum value.

Email me any time with questions about mowers or any other lawn care machinery - I'll be glad to help!

Landscaping Services Differ In Prices - Cost Versus Value

2007-12-18T10:20:00.000-05:00

Landscaping Services here in Columbia South Carolina differ from company to company. One company may offer you a price that is significantly higher than the next company. It really does pay in the long run to educate yourself to the facts about how landscaping jobs are priced so you can make the right choice in landscapers.

Not only should you look at the bottom line price of the landscaping estimate, but you should also look at the quality of service, promptness, attention to detail, and overall look of the finished installation. A low end bid may be cheap initially, but could result in dead plants, severed irrigation lines, erosion problems, or general lack of creativity or appeal. The "lowball" bid is usually low for a reason - is this landscape contractor licensed to do business in your city? Is this company reputable and can they provide you with character references? Does the company employ illegal aliens? Does this company pay their taxes? These are all questions that you should ask before you sign a contract for landscaping.

Another factor that drives the price of a landscaping project is the cost of materials. If the landscaping service that you are having to bid on your project has a good connection with a local nursery or farm, they can usually get a better price for the materials. It is generally up to the landscaper as to how much they charge you in the end for these materials - after all, the landscaper has done the foot work in locating the best prices and has done enough business with the material supplier to merit the "wholesale" prices that they enjoy.

Cost of labor is also a factor. What is the cost of the labor that the landscape contractor has to pay? If the cost of labor is significantly higher, then the dollar cost to you the consumer will be higher. If the cost of labor is extremely cheap, then there might be problems with communication, trustworthiness, and local economic impacts. It is a common misconception that immigrant labor is the only labor that is cheap. There ARE Nationalized Americans who are willing and able to do the labor that is involved in landscaping and Groundskeeping at a reasonable rate. A responsible landscape contractor will take these factors into account when running their business.

So whether it's lawn maintenance, landscaping services, or groundskeeping, it pays to take a good look at the company who you are employing. That money that you pay to the company might just come back around to YOU if you are prudent with your selection!

Regular Lawn Maintenance Service

2007-08-29T09:53:00.000-04:00

Columbia, South Carolina is one of the hottest places I know of. Not only does the city retain heat from the paved areas and buildings, but the fact that the soil in Greater Columbia SC is so sandy contributes to the intense heat. Regular Lawn Maintenance Service here in Columbia, that is, every "x" days to cut the lawn, is probably not usually a great idea....here's why.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm in the Lawn Care Business and my primary customer base is customers who need their lawns cut. However, what I'm advocating here is that the lawns need to be cut at semi-regular intervals. If I were to cut any given lawn at the wrong time, I could damage the lawn.

I see many of my competitors doing just that - cutting the grass in the middle of a drought just because the "contract" dictates when the grass should be cut. What is happening is that they are killing the grass when it needs to be left alone (and watered!). Long Grass will help the lawn live through times of drought.

For my customers, I monitor their grass (and their grounds, bushes, etc). I take into account how healthy the grass looks overall. If their grass is due to be cut on, say, the 7th of August and it looks drought stressed and under watered, I will rescedule and round up the service to the next week or the next round. For this to work well for me, I as the service provider round it like that so I don't have to break my schedule by coming the following day (in this case the 8th of August).

Take a close look at what your lawn maintenance service is doing to your grass. Are they there to collect the cash no matter what (because the calendar says its time to cut) or are they doing whats in the best interest of YOU the customer and whats best for your lawn's health.

For more Lawn Care Tips, visit Busy Bee Lawn Care online!

Submitted by:
Ashley Brooks
Owner/Operator
Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC
Columbia, SC
Cell 803.331.5323

Tree Removal Service for Columbia and Lexington South Carolina

2007-08-14T16:25:00.001-04:00

If you are in need of a Tree Removal Service for Columbia or Lexington South Carolina, I can definately help. Being in the "green industry", I am in contact with some of the lesser known, yet most competitively priced tree removal services here in the Midlands Area.

One tree cutting, trimming, and removal service that I use alot is my Uncle. If he is too busy, I often refer folks to my secondary choice, who I will introduce you by referral to once you contact me.

The cost of a tree removal service depends upon their overhead, the equipment they use, the position and size of the tree, the amount of brush that will need to be hauled off, and generally the length of time it will take to cut down the tree and remove the debris from the premisis.

One important aspect about tree removal is the final touches. Make sure that when you receive a "bid" to do the work, that they include (or carve out) the cost of the stump grinding. Grinding away the remaining part of the tree that is in the ground can cost from $80 to $250 depending upon the size of the stump and the location of the job.

Final touches to the job also include the removal of the sawdust debris and the spreading of topsoil. Often times, areas underneath trees have an imbalance in the pH of the soil which inhibits proper growth of the lawn or other plants. Spreading good topsoil after tree removal can help the situation. Once you have the topsoil down, you can call in the lawn care guys to put down a healthy layer of sod grass or perhaps sew some seeds (depending upon the irrigation, time of year, amount of light, etc).

If you need a tree removed, please don't hesitate to contact me, just visit Busy Bee Lawn Care online for my contact information.

Happy Gardening!

Ashley Brooks
Owner - Busy Bee Lawn Care
Columbia S.C.
803-331-5323

Ironite makes your grass green!

2007-07-06T09:16:00.000-04:00

Just wanted to share a quick tip with you that I learned. Not only does your lawn need fertilizer, weed and feed, proper cutting, sunlight, water, and the usual items, but it also could use a healthy dose of IRONITE. Ironite will clear out the plaque in your grass' root system to enable your grass to "uptake" those nutrients that you spread on your grass (like Carolina Special Fertilizer). What can inhibit that uptake of nutrients is salt deposits in the roots of the grass.

Here's a quick link to more information about Ironite:

Ironite Ad Copy

Call Busy Bee Lawn Care at (803)331-5323 for your Lawn Care, Grounds Keeping, Landscaping, Sprinkler installation and Landscape Maintenance needs!

How to Lay Sod

2007-06-24T19:26:00.000-04:00

A green, vibrant, healthy lawn starts with good soil, meticulous preparation, and an eye for detail. Simply laying sod down over un-prepared land can be counterproductive and time consuming if things don't go as planned. There are 4 important steps in how to lay sod to insure that your lawn is the gem of the block. Laying sod starts with sufficient breaking of the ground, proper nutrients, proper leveling, and frequent watering after the grass sod is laid.

You must break the ground on which you are laying the sod in order for the grass to root properly. There is a special rake that you can get at the hardware store that is called a "thatching rake" - this is my favorite tool for breaking ground. For one of the most widely used grasses, centipede, you only need to break the ground about 1/4 inch. On the other hand, for St. Augustine, you need to give the roots a great deal of growing room in order for the grass leaves to thrive and grow long.

After you break the ground, go ahead and put out a light sprinkling of pulverized limestone (lime). Lime will "sweeten up" acidic soil...and can't really be over used. Lime will help make your soil less acidic. Acidic soil is common around pine trees, for instance, and is an area that should be layered liberally with lime. Another soil enrichment that you can do is to add "starter fertilizer", which can also be found at your local hardware store or building supply store like Lowes or Home Depot. Beware though not to use "weed and feed" as it will burn the new sod.

One of the most important things to do when laying a new lawn is to properly level the ground. You can do this by hand or you can hire someone to "grade" your lot with heavy machinery. It all depends upon how much time and labor you are willing to put into hand grading your yard. If you have a small lawn like mine, you may elect to hand grade the yard. There is another specialty rake that landscapers use that is very wide with short (3" or so in length) tines on one side and a flat scraper on the other side. It looks like a conventional rake, but is specifically for leveling and separating out rocks and other debris. Take your time leveling your yard and you'll be glad you did - having to take up rooted sod and doing this over is no fun!

Watering sod that has been freshly installed is THE most important step to success. You must water your new lawn twice a day for at least 10 days to 2 weeks, depending upon the rainfall in your area. Do not let your new sod get dry and parched. Warning signs of an overly dry area are faded greyish green leaves of grass that just look dry.

So that's it! Your new lawn will establish in a short period of time and you will be mowing in no time. Give your new lawn at least 4 weeks and up to 6 weeks until your first mowing in order to allow the root system to establish. After that, mow only 1/3rd of the length of the blade of grass for maximum health of your lawn.

-By Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia South Carolina, Lawn Care Service at it's Best!

Lawn Care in a Drought - what to do, to fertilize or not, and how to cut the grass properly

2007-05-23T12:01:00.000-04:00

When your lawn is enduring a drought such as the one that we are in the middle of here in Columbia South Carolina, there are several things to keep in mind. Primarily, know that your lawn is in a "dormant" state and is not dead. Your grass may look like straw, become wilted and yellow, and generally look like it is not thriving.

Don't worry! Just keep watering it at the frequency you normally water, fertilizing at the normal lawn fertilization frequency, and cutting at the same times. The difference in cutting, though, should be that you cut your lawn at a higher level. Cutting your grass at a higher level helps to retain water and shade the lawn to protect against the drought.

Contrary to what you might think, fertilizing your lawn during a drought is actually good for the lawn - it helps it recover once the drought is over!

For this and more lawn care and lawn mowing tips, please visit Busy Bee Lawn Care on the web at www.BusyBeeLawnCare.com

Pine Straw or Pinestraw - How do you spell Cheap?!

2007-05-09T19:40:00.000-04:00

Pine Straw Mulch is one of the cheaper ways to really dress up a landscape here in the South. Pinestraw comes in longleaf, loblolly, slash pine, and short leaf - but my favorite is the long leaf or slash pine, both of which are long (8" to 10" in length) with an "amber" color to them.

There are several benefits to using pine straw and certain circumstances in which using pinestraw would be of benefit to the landscaping situation. Horticulturally speaking, pine straw is a good mulch or "bed dressing" for acid loving plants (azaleas, hydrangeas, etc). It keeps moisture intact, especially through dry seasons and it also keeps weeds to a minimum.

I like to install or "spread" new pinestraw in about February, taking up some or all of the old pine straw which, at that point in the year has bush clippings and various other types of debris mixed in (which is unsightly). After about October, I like to "fluff" the pinestraw with a pitchfork and turn it over to reveal non-weathered mulch. This gives the effect of new pinestraw without the cost of new materials.

If you have any questions about this type of ground cover, mulch, gravel rock crush and run, or any other landscaping question, please don't hesitate to call Busy Bee Lawn Care!

Busy Bee Lawn Care - (803)331-5323

Spring is coming! Have you got a lawn care service?

2007-02-27T12:50:00.000-05:00

Spring is coming! Have you got a lawn care service?

I am currently taking on new lawn care and grounds keeping customers as spring is in the air and folks are starting to think about the work that spring brings with it. Below are a few points of interest pertaining to my level of lawn care service here in Columbia, South Carolina. The "blanks" are negociable, please contact me at 331-LEAF for your estimate.

Here's the breakdown:

Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC is a full service lawn care provider. I hold official business licensure in compliance with local law and am an officially licensed pesticide applicator (herbicide). I maintain liability insurance, and I use the best equipment on the market to do the best job in the quickest time possible.

The minimum fee is $50 for the basic lawn care service during the green season unless otherwise arranged. A recurring "basic lawn servicing" is defined as: Mowing the lawn, Edging the lawn, weed eating the edges of the lawn, and blowing away the debris that I create in the process.

The cost of the basic lawn care service for your grounds is $_____ per visit. This year’s service on your property will commence on the _____ day of _______, 20____ unless otherwise requested (please contact me otherwise)

Billing – You will be billed by mail on a monthly basis for the services previously rendered in that month. Invoices are mailed at the end of the month and payment is appreciated before the 5th.

Grass Cutting Defined – Your grass will be cut to the most appropriate height every ______ weeks. At times, it will be bagged, and at times it will be mulched (whichever is best for the situation). Either method will be exercised at the request of the customer if so desired.

Herbiciding weeds in areas where they are inappropriate at the appropriate time (as I determine) is included in the cost of the servicing. The cost of the herbicide is included in the cost of the basic lawn servicing. Please be aware that to enjoy the benefits of herbicide, a risk in losing adjacent plants exists, albeit a minimal risk. Customer hereby assumes that risk as their own.

Fertilizer application will be recommended throughout the year. If you elect to do fertilizing, the cost of the fertilizer used will be added to the basic lawn care service fee for the month in which it was applied.

Bagging, hauling away of debris and disposal fees would incur a surcharge and are not included in the basic servicing (although leaving un-bagged debris on the curb IS included in the basic service). Bagging (to leave on the curb) will incur a surcharge depending upon the amount of debris.

Fall leaf/pine straw cleanup - Each year after October the 15th, our agreement switches to an hourly rate of $____/hour for my service (one man). For each helper I employ on that day’s service, there will be an additional $____/hour expense incurred (ex: me and 1 helper = $____/hour). You can elect to use our service as much or as little as you wish and to the extent and frequency of your need. The average fall cleanup takes anywhere from 1 to 3 hours total depending upon the amount of debris (this is not a guarantee of the time that will be spent on your property).

Hedge trimming, miscellaneous grounds keeping, pressure washing and other requested services’ costs are based upon the hourly rate. Roof clearing by estimate. Tree removal service is offered by referral.

Rain Delay – If it rains or is too wet on the day that your grounds are to be serviced, know that your needs are regarded as important and will be taken care of you as soon as possible. In anticipation of rain, your grounds may be serviced a day or two early.

Thank you for your business!

What's the best way to remove leaves - is any one leaf removal service the best?

2007-01-31T10:02:00.000-05:00

Leaf Removal in the Columbia, South Carolina area can be a very labor intensive endeavor. Many folks decide to wait until the last leaf has fallen off of their trees before they do something about the removal of those leaves.

There is no good way to go about doing the removal but there are some critical pieces of information that I wanted to share with you.

First of all, decide whether or not you do indeed want to remove the leaves. The alternative is to leave them on your grounds and perhaps grind them up with a mower with a mulching blade to aid in the decomposition process. Often times, this is a good solution for the homeowner who has an overload of leaves.

If you decide to go ahead and remove the leaves, the #1 tool that you'll need is a gas powered leaf blower. The best leaf blowers on the market that I have found are the Redmax 8001, the Stihl BR 600, and the Echo pb 651t - all of which have the throttle mounted on the nozzle (avoid the hip mounted throttle!).

The next most important thing to decide is the strategy for pushing the leaves. Take a good look at the grounds and get a clear idea of what direction you want to push the leaves. WIND is a very important factor. On a particularly windy day, make sure the wind is at your back - nature can be very helpful in this way.

Try to do your leaf removal on a dry day - that is, wait at least 2 days after rainfall. This way, you won't be dealing with heavy debris and the risk of soiling your shutters, windows, etc.

And lastly, remember to do leaf cleanup on the day before the debris pick-up crew for your city makes their rounds. This way, your neighbors don't have to look at the trash and you have less of a risk of the debris getting blown around the neighborhood.

Tree Removal Service - Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia SC

2007-01-23T19:26:00.001-05:00

So you have a dead tree in your yard? If you've ever shopped for service in regards to tree removal service in the Columbia South Carolina Area, you know that the bids for cutting down the tree and removing the tree can be very different.

One bid may be for the total removal of the tree, the grinding of the stump (you may have seen a stump grinding service rolling around before), and of course the surgical removal of the tree (cutting down without damaging anything!). This bid for tree removal would be significantly higher than the bid to simply "drop" the tree.

If you drop the tree where it stands and do not grind the stump, the cost to remove the tree will be roughly 1/5th of the cost of the total removal package. This option may be attractive to folks who don't care about the appearance - they just want the risk removed. Others may have the resources and manpower to haul off the downed tree, but lack the resources and skill to physically cut down the tree.

Whatever your choice in tree service in the Greater Columbia South Carolina Area, make sure that the company doing the work is licensed in your city/town, is insured, and has a good track record where safety is concerned.

Busy Bee Lawn Care is Now Accepting Applications

2006-12-21T17:44:00.000-05:00

Here is a description of the Lawn Care Job Opening provided by Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia South Carolina:

Job Title: Lawn Care and Landscaping Crew Member (For Lawn Care Company)
Job Description: The Lawn Care and Grounds Keeping Crew Member will be responsible for the duties described below.

Terms of Employment: Seasonal, Hours will vary

Job Type: Lawn Care and Grounds Keeping

Base Location: Cayce, South Carolina

The Crew Member will directly report to the supervisor.

APPLICATIONS WILL BE TAKEN ONLINE ONLY – Please find the online application at the main website, complete the application on your computer, then email the completed application to: Lawrenb@hotmail.com

Job Summary:

The crew member position requires quality workmanship, responsibility, and efficient time management. The crew member will do manual labor, keep time records, navigate to the jobs, and serve as a reliable resource for any other tasks deemed necessary by the supervisor. The crew member is responsible for the safety of themselves as well as any crew member working with them.

Special Requirements:

The candidate must have a minimum of 2 years’ professional experience in lawn care/landscaping/grounds maintenance or demonstrate proficiency and skill equal to 2 years’ experience.

The candidate for Crew Member must own a pickup truck and must have insurance coverage on that pickup truck.

A valid South Carolina Drivers License will be required

A SLED Background Check will be performed

A current driving record will be requested

Responsibilities and Duties:

Able to operate and demonstrate proficiency before hire with landscape maintenance, lawn care, and other equipment including but not limited to:

Ø Push Lawn Mower

Ø Self Propelled Push Lawn Mower

Ø Gas Powered, hand held, “stick” edger

Ø Gas Powered conventional edger

Ø Backpack Blower

Ø Weed eater (2 stroke, requires fuel mixture)

Ø Hand tools (rake, shovel, and any other common hand tool used in landscaping, lawn care, and grounds keeping)

Ø Light equipment

Ø Gas Powered Hedge Trimmer

Ø Fertilizer Drop Spreader

Ø And any other common piece of machinery deemed to be necessary to complete the task at hand

Able to consistently, safely, and accurately maneuver a landscape trailer towed behind pickup truck backwards and forwards.

Able to work in various outdoor places and circumstances including exposure to dust from various sources, direct skin contact with various plants & landscaping materials, varying degrees of noise, extreme weather conditions, and pests.

Knowledge of safe operating practices in the work environment and with the various tools and machinery.

Must report malfunctioning equipment to the supervisor. However, if the equipment is down, work time is down, and paid time is down – it would be of benefit to the crew member to develop skills in small engines in order to keep the equipment in top working order.

Other duties will be assigned by supervisor as determined by supervisor.

Qualifications

The crew member must be able to perform each duty satisfactorily (at the discretion of the supervisor). The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required:

Experience/Education Requirements

This position requires a high school education and at least 2 years related experience in the green industry (lawn care, landscaping, and grounds maintenance). The candidate must have the ability to comprehend and execute orally spoken directions and instructions to the satisfaction of the supervisor.

Mathematical Proficiency

Proficiency in Basic math skills required in order to calculate gas/fuel mixtures for the gas powered equipment, navigation on roads and timesheets.

Communication and Language Skills

Must be fluent in The English Language. Proficiency in Spanish is a plus but not required.

Other abilities and skills

Marketing and sales skills are a plus!
Personality Counts - A good Personality is a plus!

Physical Demands

The physical demands described below must be met by the crew member to successfully, safely, and efficiently perform the functions of this job position.

The employee is frequently required to stand upright, crouch, walk quickly, sit down, and negotiate physical orientation in various situations (such as mounting and dismounting power equipment).

A satisfactory demonstration of coordination and dexterity is required of this position. The employee is frequently required to use their hands in order to control the various power equipment, operate the machinery, drive vehicles, use hand tools, and help maintain the power equipment. The employee is frequently required to reach with their hands and arms fully extended, climb (no tree climbing required), balance themselves, kneel down, crouch and crawl, and move around quickly.

The employee is required to be able to speak clearly and audibly and to hear sufficiently.

The employee must be able to frequently move up to 20 pounds and occasionally lift and move up to 70 pounds.

This employee’s vision must be clear and fully functional to safely and satisfactorily operate the equipment, complete the tasks at hand, and drive a vehicle. Eye protection will be required at all times.

Work Environment

The work environment that will be encountered by the crew member will include, but will not be limited to, the examples below.

While performing the duties of this job, the employee frequently works with mechanical, gas/electrically powered objects and equipment

The employee works in outside weather conditions consisting of extreme heat in the summer (upwards of 104 degrees) and cold in the winter (as low as 20 degrees).

The employee is exposed to various fumes, airborne particles of all sorts, and occasional toxic or caustic chemicals (herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, etc).

The noise level in the work environment is occasionally loud. Hearing protection will be required (and supplied)

How to sharpen a lawn mower blade

2006-12-20T16:49:00.000-05:00

Most folks just break out the old lawn mower every year, throw some gas in it, (hopefully) crank it up, and go at their lawn without stopping to do one of the most important things - sharpen the lawn mower blade.

"But my mower seems to cut fine, why sharpen it?" - Common perception! Look closely at the blades of grass after you cut them. If the ends of your grass blades are frayed, your mower blades are in need of a good sharpening.

A good sharp blade will ensure a clean cut and a healthy lawn - frayed grass ends make for an unhealthy lawn!

First, unplug the spark plug and tuck the wire well away from the plug (it can "arc" and actually fire without being "connected"). Turn the mower on its side, making sure you don't spill out gas. If gas is in the tank, empty the tank, at least, to a level where it won't spill when tipped.

The BEST way to remove the blade is with an impact wrench - either a good electric one or an air/pneumatic air wrench. Remove the bolt holding the blade on, note the order in which the washer goes on, and note the direction of the blade.

Once the blade is off, you can sharpen it using an air grinder, an electric side grinder with a course wheel, or a hand file. When sharpening the lawn mower blade, keep with the same angle as was stock. Never sharpen the blade to the sharpness of a knife edge - the edge will quickly cleave off and break. Instead of a razor sharp edge, you are really after an ever so slightly squared off edge,

After sharpening the blade, re-attach, plug in your spark plug, gas it up, and go!

A good sharp blade will even SOUND different when cutting - you'll notice a clean cut and your grass will thrive and grow more healthy all season.

Good luck! For more tips and information on Lawn Care in Columbia South Carolina, visit my website, BusyBeeLawnCare.com

Leaf and Pinestraw Removal Service

2006-12-17T09:03:00.000-05:00

At this time of year, everyone is looking for the magic bullet to quickly and easily take care of their leaf and debris problem. The big secret is - there IS no good way to remove leaves...just good old fashioned labor (and a backpack blower!).

I start by taking a good look at the yard. I determine the direction in which I want to send the leaves and debris, then start blowing the leaves in that direction. Often times, I include the leaves in the beds; blowing the leaves away from the beds and towards that direction.

Once I get all the leaves and pinestraw moved to one side of the yard, we usually use a large tarp to rake the debris onto. Then the good old fashioned labor comes in - a strong crew member must manually lift the tarp laden with leaves and pinestraw and carry it to the street.

This service runs on an hourly basis. The degree to which we clean up is entirely up to your preference and what your budget will allow.

One last comment - these "yard and lawn vacuums" are good for light duty, but for most yards are ineffective.

Welcome To The Busy Bee Lawn Care Blog (What's New!)

2006-12-17T08:20:00.000-05:00

Hi there!

Welcome to the Busy Bee Lawn Care Blog. My name is Ashley Brooks and I'm the owner and supervisor of Busy Bee Lawn Care.

Check back to this section for my frequent postings...I will frequently post lawn care tips, fertilization information for your lawn, lawn care equipment ratings, business tips and information, and a general commentary.

Busy Bee is a locally owned, friendly/family oriented, licensed and insured lawn care business. The residents and business owners in the Greater Columbia South Carolina areas enjoy the finest in lawn care from Busy Bee!

Make sure you visit my main website if you are interested in more about Lawn Care in Columbia South Carolina and the Surrounding Areas.